mph07alloy

Are they figuring in the taxes before they subtract the rebate?

All of that other stuff is BS so the dealer can pocket more of your money. Even the "invoice" isn't what the dealer actually pays for the car. The holdback price is what you really want to know, that's what the dealer pays, which for the particular car in question is probably around $27,700, take away the 1500 rebate and the dealer is paying 26200. And don't let the salesman bog you down with a bunch of numbers like tax and title, just negotiate the price of the vehicle first. I buy a new car every 2 years or so and as a shopper, the best 2 things you can do is (1)know exactly the price you want to pay, and (2)hold out, make the salesman think you are looking at a similar car at another dealer across town.

If you pay 28678, your salesman will be having Filet Mignon and Dom Perignon for supper.

SCCAGT

I chuckle about how mine was purchased.
I did an online search of where cars were with what we wanted. Found 2. Both roughly same distance away. About 170mi. Both had tinted windows as only dealer add-on. So it was a toss up. Called each dealer only to verify they had them. Decided within 2 weeks of that to just go get it. Labor Day weekend, sunday. We packed up the kids, jumped in the van and headed that direction. Couldnt really remember which sales rep appealed the most, so called one on the way. As we approached the highway interchange to go to the respective city, verification was made that the car was still there. (lol, lets go this way now). All information and pricing was done over the phone. Paper work was prepared by the time we arrived. I looked over the car and drove it. Wife took kids on potty run when I got back. By the time they were all done with natures business, I had everything done, she walks over and I threw her the keys. The look was priceless.

Definetly, a different purchase path to follow. But everything was good. I even sold cars for 2 years in my younger days. Had only 1 deal that was similarily simple. No bitching over pennies, no trade, no indecisiveness about what car, etc. Just the perfect price on the perfect car. In and out in no time.

dcarlinf1

Good advice, but I disagree on the face to face part. I found it better to deal via email.

FourCam

I just ran it through Truecar.com (that's how I bought my car) for Chicago 60609 and it came back as $26,823 + T&L.

Pat.

Thrashard340

Yep. Same here. When I did it by email, I got rock bottom prices EVERY SINGLE time. These prices were anywhere between $3,500 - $5,000 below MSRP.

r00st

I am a sams club member and tried to get their best price...the participating dealer came back with 29,651 so actually a couple hundred higher than the other offer (both are using the exact same vehicle so its apples to apples).

I BS'd and told the salesman I have another offer of 28.980 OTD to see the response...figuring we could play the email haggle game but they flat out responded that she is not capable of hitting that price point and is "not sure how the other dealer is getting that price".

I am not sure if this is a line of BS?? I am guessing so? Or maybe the dealership she works at only allows for a certain profit or they refuse the sale?

I told her to come back with her absolute best price on the vehicle and she came back at 29,498 OTD after 1500 rebate...

So what do you guys think...BS??? I wish I could know what the TRUE dealer cost is on this as I know they get holdback and whatever else.

Also...I got my 750 private cash brochure offer in the mail today. This can be taken directly off of the lowest negotiated price, right?

Lastly...for this 750 brochure....can you spell your name differently and get another one later? Because the one I just got is only good for another 3 weeks.

Does anyone know what offers there have been in the last year on the 2011/2012 mustang? I would hate to miss the 1500 cash back as thats a pretty good discount..... Is there typically always some sort of rebate on the mustang (at least now that the 5.0 has been out for awhile now?)

mph07alloy

1. If a dealer/salesman's mouth is moving, it's usually BS

2. The $750 private cash can be taken off the lowest negotiated price, I've used that twice in the last few years. Keep quiet about the 750 until you think you've reached the lowest offer you're gonna get then present it. Referring to the above comment about the BS factor, they may try to say "oh we had already figured that $750 rebate into the price we'd agreed on" Don't let them pull that bull**** because they are just pocketing the extra $750. Insist on the additional 750 discount or go somewhere else.

3. When I bought mine late in the model year there was $2500 rebate plus the $750 private cash.

LindsayEOD

Im from Illinois and I got $5k off my 2011 about 3 months ago. They were going to sell me the exact same 2012 for $3500 off. If you are close to St Louis, I would recommend using one of the dealerships there. SO much cheaper than the Illinois ones. I eventually bought mine in Wisconsin though.

r00st

I would have no problem picking up a leftover 2011 if I could find one but would expect a HEFTY discount on it now that the 2012's have been out so long.

Thanks for the tips everyone...I think I am going to stick to my plan and wait for spring. Gives me more time to save a bigger down payment as well as potentially having the 2013's released so the 12's will drop in price.