Mishri

I wouldn't lower it, but it depends on your area, Around here i'd bottom out all over the place, it's bad enough as it is I have to slow down for dips pretty low and I'm at stock ride height. I believe lowering it will give you a stiffer ride and is mostly cosmetic. for what you are doing you wont notice a difference.

Infact, for what you are doing i'd ignore suspension. Drag racing suspension is different from road racing suspension. and stock suspension 2011 GTs are cutting 1.6 60' and getting in the 9s. for road racing you could completely ignore power and spend thousands on a good adjustable setup.

You are doing basically what I do, DD it, drag race at the track when i have a chance (2 or 3 times a year) and some street/highway fun.

Since I'm guessing you have a manual I wouldn't recommend the 4.10s or boss intake manifold... Too tricky to pull off in a manual, shifts are fast/short and you have to be precise to maximize the gains off the boss intake manifold.

So, that being said, CAI + full Exhaust might be your best bet follow that up with some good/wide summer tires or drag radials. and you'll have a good car quick car capable of mid 11s.

SSKILLER5.0

Hey man totally off subject can you give me your thoughts on the boss intake. I have waffled back and fourth about that thing a thousand times. I know its knocks; powerband doesn't kick in until after 5000. Ive been looking at some tests and I gotta tell you the tight straight up power curve on that thing has peaked my interest. Also I think somewhere elese you posted a spot you could get it pretty cheap..thanks for the info in advance

BeitzelGT

I will be getting an auto. May order new on my deployment and if I do, I'll have 3.73s in it. How common is it for people to have drag radials on a dd lol. I've thought about the boss intake just since intake and exhaust will make up for the lost low end power and on a drag, the boss intake would help

BeitzelGT

Probably just go with something like this, since drag radials have a 15,000'ish mile tread life.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/sumito...275-40-18.html

BeitzelGT

AM put a video up with the same specs on their Stage 2 GT

JLT Intake/tune, pypes x pipe (uses stock cats), pypes full exhaust and put down 407 to the wheels...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfCq4YgGz-g

Now, this car has the same stuff, Intake, Tune, Exhaust and put down 424
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FwYCngQwYM

Would replacing the stock cats give more HP? And what makes AM's car put down low 400's and this other guys with the same stuff put down almost 430?

autos221

I am never buying pypes again it all rusts so quick go with stainless exhaust and ceramic headers

EZrider73

Good thread ! I'm right there with S197 and his thinking. Going to do some minor tweaks for power but get more into the handling,stance and looks.

I had my fun with a 427 CJ 4v in a project truck

Mishri

Unless you are exceptional top notch driver for a manual, I probably wouldn't recommend it. Mostly because the average person who has bought it with a manual actually got slightly slower times in the 1/4. You get most of the gains at 6200-7500 RPM so you have to shift really well to pull off getting those gains, and although you can tune out most of the loss of power down low there is still some. That said, excellent drivers and automatics have gotten .2 lower ET out of it. (in a race thats about 2 car lengths, also people say .1=10hp) Tousley Ford has it for $350 I believe (or was that low, might be a bit more last i looked i think 380?)

When i ordered my 2012 different gearing wasn't an option, I was stuck with 3.15s. 4.10s might not be for everyone, my highway gas mileage went way down, like 22mpg now from 26. To me it doesn't matter, it's only a loss of about 50 miles per tank. (so costing me around $7 per tank) i don't drive the car all that much, I have a company car for to/from work and I travel a lot for business. I'd say if you really want lowest ET at the dragstrip get 4.10s otherwise 3.73s will probably be good enough... drag radials on DD if you really drive it every day probably not many.. I only have 5,000 miles on mine and I bought it last april I believe. I do drive it all year though, in the snow and everything, i try to save the drag radials for the track though.

I'm pretty happy with my mods, if you wanted to follow the same thing I'd say you are headed in the right direction. But again, my mods aren't for everyone, many people wouldn't like the 4.10s and some people would want axle-back exhaust to make it sound better/louder. and the boss intake manifold should be a good one for you since you dont have to worry about missing a shift or shifting too early at 7,000+ RPM my mods were about $2,000 not including wheels/drag radials. so you could do everything I have and buy a set of tires/wheels for summer, keep your stockers for winter (unless winters are mild there)

Yeah something like that or Nitto's.. i think the NT05 is good?

2nd one says stainless works full exhaust, so it probably includes headers, and might have an off-road mid pipe.

basically I wouldn't bother with any exhaust that didn't atleast replace the stock cats with high-flow.. but really I wouldn't bother with any non off-road pipe (no cats)

I'm surprised they even picked up 8whp with that particular exhaust and coil over plugs. I wonder if the difference was from it being different days more than the mods?

If American Muscle recommends those mods for stage 1 and stage 2 I don't think I'd go to them for advice on which mods to get, their whp numbers are low for $$$ spent and their 1/4 mile times are also not good, considering people have gone faster with just drag radials and no other mods. so that is likely driver error. also their .1 gained in the 1/4 mile between those 2 runs could easily be attributed to cooler temps, less humidity or higher pressure. or even driver getting a bit better.

so basically to break it down, most people see around 400-405whp with just CAI, 410-415whp with off-road X pipe, and 425-430whp with headers. so that explains why AM saw 407 because they really dont have much/any exhaust work that adds power, they are close to CAI only whp, they probably picked up a few hp off of a bit better flowing exhaust but thats about it.

BeitzelGT

Will the boss intake help with a street race from a dig or 40 roll?

Also, I guess thats why the Pypes is so much cheaper than other stuff.. not as good of gains.

gmoran1469

CAI/TUNE, Axle-backs, suspension, tires, and wheels. Should put you at 3k.

Tires and wheels are the biggest thing right after CAI/TUNE IMO.

Be aware of the #8 cyl problems with aftermarket tunes though.

IMO, CAI/Tune, then get wider wheels and stickier tires (10.5 in back, 9.5 in front IMO), then drop it about an inch, then worry about the sound, no need for headers or cat-backs. Axle-backs change the sound just fine and the headers/cat-backs won't increase HP by much if any at all.