runstang22

I'm upgrading. I read all the posts and opinions (there are alot of them). I'm running into a few issues that maybe some of you have come across. I have an 06 GT setup with the shaker 500.

1st: I took the fusebox apart (I want to avoid the typical "amp kit" and keep it looking factory). Where can I find or what can I use in place of those connector tips that come into the bottom of the fuse box? Those tips are unique.

2nd: Does anyone have a diagram of the factory wiring harness for the pigtail coming out of the amp -not wires going into the subs, but the wires that go to the front of the car? I may have to clip off that pigtail and make my own connector. If thats the case, how?

3rd: I have an aftermarket touchscreen navi unit with male RCA's coming out the back of it for the subs... is it easy to find a connector for this that I could run back to the subs? What connection would I use to connect that wire to the sound wire going to the subs?

4th: I looked everywhere for more info on someone actually doing this. If anyone has seen a write up on it with pics, please post it. Its worth the money to get the box and trunk pieces if the price is right. It was for me, so I did.

5th: I know all the comments "save your money, go with an aftermarket setup," I got that, this cheaper system, that I can upgrade after the supercharger goes in.

157dB

1st from Ford
2nd http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile...Navigation.pdf
3rd www.crutchfield.com
4th no write up but Ford will need to
program your 'as built data' to the new
head unit for it to work properly
5th shoulda went aftermarket

ps the OEM amp needs 5volts for
the turn-on lead - aftermarket
turn-on voltages are 12volts...
its gonna pop when turned on unless
you change the 12volts into 5volts
with a LM7805 voltage regulator...

runstang22

Ford doesn't have them a part number for tips that go into the fuse box. You have to get them out of a junkyard.
Ford won't need to program the aftermarket head unit. Its ready to go. I decided after looking at it to use what I can from the kit I bought - still a good deal and do an amp kit. I ganked this from another forum but this is what I was looking for, after hours of searching:
Shaker 500 upgrade to Shaker 1000
by Droptop306 on Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:14 pm


Alright here is what I have been able to come up with so far:

Aftermarket Shaker 1000 amps and sub upgrade

I've got the wiring all figured out.

Big picture:

Let's start with power for the trunk-mounted Shaker 1000 amps. Ford did NOT install the power wiring for the Shaker 1000 amps in the car at all. This omission starts at the under-hood passenger side fuse-box. On a Shaker 1000 equipped vehicle, there are two fuses up there that feed the Shaker 1000. The wires that would run back to the trunk harness would be:

VT/LB (+) for subwoofer connector C4158A and C4160A)
PK/YE (+) for subwoofer connector C4157A and C4159A)

Those two wires, as best I can tell, would run straight from the under-hood fuse-box, through the driver side main wire-harness grommet, and back to the trunk.

Also, you need ground...so the trunk harness ground wire, if installed, would be:

BK/OG (-).

I don't know where it grounds to normally, but I'm going to run the ground wire up to the front and tap into the BK/OG (-) wire that feeds the head unit...so I don't get a ground loop and get noise (like alternator whine, popping etc).

My solution for (+) power since none of that is factory installed is to run 4 AWG to the trunk through a firewall grommet (fused at 60 amps, of course) to a trunk power distribution block.

For signal to the Shaker 1000 trunk amps, you need the following hookups to the head-unit wiring harness. All the colors match. It should be 4 wires total, and 3 of them tap into the head unit "J4" connector (Also known as "Audio Unit C290B") outputs (See previous post). We are using pins 5,6,and 8 on the only 8 pin connector coming off the head-unit.

Pin 5 is Rear Sub (+) it is PK/OG
Pin 6 is Rear Sub (-) it is OG/RD
Pin 8 is Rear Sub turn on and clipping feedback circuit - it is GY/BK


The head unit ground is in connector "C290d" also known as "J1" and is in the only 24 pin connector harness. The wire is:

Pin 13 Audio Unit Ground BK/OG

So that is it - only 4 wires off the head-unit harness need to be run to the trunk.

Rear Sub connections to match the above wires you have run:

Pin 1 Subwoofer Turn-ON / Clip from head unit: GY/BK

Pin 2 Subwoofer Ground: BK/OG
Pin 5 on connectors C4158A and C4160A: (+) Power VT/LB
Pin 5 on connectors C4157A and C4159A: (+) Power PK/YE

(Again, the above 3 connections I will make using a (+) 4 AWG cable run straight to battery, and Ground I will run to pin 13 BK/OG on head unit). Both pin 5 (+) power connections can be made to the same 4 AWG power cable that I run to the trunk.

Pin 7 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (+) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: PK/LG

Pin 8 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (-) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: OG/RD

You may be wondering about the "Clip" term if you are not an audio person. Clipping is when the peak and base of the audio sine wave go from rounded to squared off...in layman's terms it is distortion caused by asking the amps to play too loud.

Ford says this about the clipping circuit:

The enable / clip circuits for the 2 front subwoofer amplifiers and the 4 rear subwoofer amplifiers carries out 2 functions; to turn on the subwoofer amplifiers, and to indicate to the audio unit when the subwoofer output distortion signal reaches a damaging level. The audio unit then reduces the audio output signal to the subwoofer amplifiers. The two front AND rear subwoofers share a common ground through circuit 1204 (BK/OG wire).

So based on the above, I now think Shaker 1000 cars have SIX amps (since I can't get any of you shaker 1000 owners to take 1 minute and go look at your car and tell me if there are amps above the driver's side kick-panels )...and I now believe all 4 trunk amps are for the subs - one for each voice coil in the subs (Two 10" subs, each is Dual Voice Coil).

Now all that is left is to find out if the Shaker 500 actually has output pins for the subs...and if there is signal present to even drive them. If not, my Eclipse head unit goes in and the Shaker/Skipper 500 goes bye-bye.

I didn't have any mounting hardware with my Ebay purchased Shaker 1000 setup, so I just went out to the car to find where it all bolts in. One bracket is missing (not installed in car) but it shouldn't be necessary. It is the forward bracket for the amp rack. There are still 3 other mount points, so it should be fine.

I went to Lowes and bought the following:

(7) fender washers 1/4x1 - I drilled the center hole to 5/16. so the bolts would fit through.

(6) M8 1.25x20 bolts (Class 8,

(1) M8 1.25x25 bolt (Class 8,

(1) M8 1.25 Class 8 Nylon insert lock nut.

The last two items I listed are for the aft-most left side facing foot of the subwoofer box. Install the bolt from the UNDERSIDE of the car with some Blue 242 Medium strength Lok-Tite...then the nylon locknut will be installed from the top in the trunk.

If you want the OEM bolts instead, these are the part numbers:

W505433 for the bolts (You will need 8 of them)
W705047 for the nut
Washers are integrated on the OEM bolts.
The "missing bracket" is 19B187 (I don't know if this can be ordered or not)...if you can get it, add one more bolt (9 total) to the order.

The two amp rack holes are hiding under the piece of dynamat (black sound deadener asphalt sheet).

Get under the car, look above the right muffler...you'll see the two holes with the black dynamat obstructing them. I used a tiny punch awl to make a hole in the dynamat from the underside so I could see where the mount holes were from the top, then I used an X-acto knife to trim away the dynamat around the holes. Those two holes are for the amp rack.

Amp rack bolts get 11 lb-ft of torque, subwoofer mount bolts and the nut get 8 lb-ft.

The other two holes are easily visible when you pull the carpet...there is a clear plastic sticker covering the holes that the sub box mounts to. I'll take some pics when I install it.

One more thing...that pic I posted of the back of a 500 earlier in the thread where I suspected the 500 had sub outs (Pins 18 and 19 on the 24 pin "J1" connector)...I was wrong. The sub outs will have to come out of the "J4" connector and they will be pins 5,6, and 8.

5: Rear Sub (+) (PK/LG)
6: Rear Sub (-) (OG/RD)
8: Rear sub amp turn on and clipping signal (GY/BK)

Aftermarket Stereo Hook up
Use a Metra adapter as if I was integrating into a factory shaker 1000 system (the little pigtail has RCA jacks that mate with the new head-unit) and voila! awesome sound...complete with fully operational Shaker 1000 amps & subs.

To fix the turn on pop:

A 5 Volt Fixed Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack #276-1770) did the trick. You carefully solder and heat shrink three wires onto the little beastie - there is a diagram on the back of the package. You have +12volt power and ground, and the third pin is 5 volt output. Solder and heat-shirink all connections, but the lowdown is the regulator's ground hooks up to the head unit's black ground wire and then you solder the Blue/White (or blue on some stereos) amp/accessory turn on wire that comes out of the headunit onto the regulator's 12V input, then solder the 5V output wire to your aftermarket adapter amp turn on wires (blue/white).

I also discovered that the Metra adapter harness with RCA plugs combines the shaker 1000 sub amp turn on wire and the front door woofer turn on wire.
Items needed to mount Aftermarkd double DIN radio and Shaker 1000 amps and subwoofer or aftermarket amp and subs

Metra Part # 70-5521
Description: Factory amplifier integration harness (Click on part for more details)
Product Specifications
• -Factory Amplifier Integration harness
• -2 RCA plugs to mate to aftermarket radio's pre-amp outputs
• -One 24-pin power plug and one 8-pin subwoofer plug
• -A 1.5K Ohm resistor can be used on the amp-remote wire to eliminate turn-on pop.
Allows installation of an aftermarket radio using the existing factory wiring and connectors. No cutting of factory wiring is needed.

runstang22

the fuses are #6 and #9 for the shaker system - if you have the 500 watt system, the fuses will be there, but underside connections will not be.

runstang22

By the way, I appreciate your help. I've hear about the popping and the voltage regulator, but never knew the part number. Much appreciated.