hooker long tubes
i just got my hooker LT in today along with the cold plugs. has anybody installed either one? i have benn told that all i need to do for the headers is unhook the steering knuckle and take the old stuff off of course. is this true? if not what special stuff do i need to do? i'm going to use the stock h-pipe modified or i'll make a new one.(my dad owns a shop and has an exhaust bender) how do they sound with stock mufflers?
someone had said that they are real real loud with aftermarket mufflers, so he put the stock ones back on and still had a great sound. I don't remember who said this, it was someone on these boards though
First of all, use the search feature!
This is from my post a few weeks ago.....
I installed them on my car last week and I saw about a 2 10's gain on the track, about 15hp. Yes, it is required to remove the upper steering knuckle bolt. Hooker claims that you can than separate the shaft but Im here to tell you they are crazy! You have to remove the drivers side front rack and pinion bolt (the nut is welded on the bottom and must come out through the top) in order to get the shaft to separate. It took me about 4-5 hrs to get the old ones off and 2 hours to put the new ones on. I found that the majority of the bolts can be removed using 1/4" drive tools, especially on the passenger side. You do not have to remove the motor mounts but it would sure make it easier. The exhaust manifold bolts are 13mm nuts and 5mm studs. Take the nuts off first or you will most likely break the 5mm socket. The upper O2 sensors take a little while to disconnect b/c they are hidden behind the block. I also found that using a 13mm gear wrench seemed to help especially on the upper bolts. The exhaust is quite a bit louder but still sounds ok. All in all it wasnt that hard. Make sure you get the car up high if your doing off jack stands, it definitely helps. Hooker also tells you to lock the steering wheel before disconnecting the knuckle. I think it is easier not to do this but mark both ends of the knuckle so you can reinstall it correctly. Good Luck! Let me know if you have any further questions
This is from my post a few weeks ago.....
I installed them on my car last week and I saw about a 2 10's gain on the track, about 15hp. Yes, it is required to remove the upper steering knuckle bolt. Hooker claims that you can than separate the shaft but Im here to tell you they are crazy! You have to remove the drivers side front rack and pinion bolt (the nut is welded on the bottom and must come out through the top) in order to get the shaft to separate. It took me about 4-5 hrs to get the old ones off and 2 hours to put the new ones on. I found that the majority of the bolts can be removed using 1/4" drive tools, especially on the passenger side. You do not have to remove the motor mounts but it would sure make it easier. The exhaust manifold bolts are 13mm nuts and 5mm studs. Take the nuts off first or you will most likely break the 5mm socket. The upper O2 sensors take a little while to disconnect b/c they are hidden behind the block. I also found that using a 13mm gear wrench seemed to help especially on the upper bolts. The exhaust is quite a bit louder but still sounds ok. All in all it wasnt that hard. Make sure you get the car up high if your doing off jack stands, it definitely helps. Hooker also tells you to lock the steering wheel before disconnecting the knuckle. I think it is easier not to do this but mark both ends of the knuckle so you can reinstall it correctly. Good Luck! Let me know if you have any further questions
thanks! for your line-loc did you use the universal solenoids from jegs? if so what size is the brake line threads?i'm pretty sure the solenoid is 1/8"NPT. was there any special procedure for bleeding the brakes afterwards or was it like normal? i've never installed a line-loc on a ABS car.
They are a metric fitting I think size five. I had to put one on each wheel b/c of the abs system. One line lock on just one wheel will not hold the car. Make sure your lines do not hit your wheel when you turn hard one direction w/ the steering wheel. They bleed the same way as any other brakes. Here is a pic of a similar installation, not mine. I did it a little different with the fittings. Ill try to post a pic tomorrow.
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