The real question is where you intend to be powerwise and how many RPM's you plan to spin. If you want to raise the redline above the 6250 level, then a longblock with appropriate cams and springs, bigger valves/porting may be in order. If you are going to keep the stock redline and just upsize the pulley and go for say 600RWHP then a shortblock swap (pistons/rods/crank/8-bolt flywheel/billet oil pump gears) should be plenty enough to stay safe.

as an aside, as long as the tune is good and you keep the RPMs low, the stock block will handle a heck of a lot of power... I let my tuner push the stock block after I had a built block ready to go in, and he hit the limits of what the stock heads could flow with my turbos.

 

danzcool hit the nail right on the head. By the way, that is a sweet looking ride. Engine is very similar to our Dart 363 with a 88mm turbo pushing 30lbs of boost, developing 1,010 RWHP. Ran the quarter in 8.5 with a bad powerglide. Can't wait for better weather so I can dial it in. Of course this is a full competition setup in a 1967 mustang fastback. For a street ride I am very impressed with your machine. Not only looks good, but runs good too. Best of wishes.

 

Endstate for me should be about 6-700 rwhp. Just a for fun kind of street car. I'm looking into just doing a short block swap at this time. Shop i contacted thats near me will do head work for 500, build the block and reassemble it all then break it in for about 1500 then give me a regular tune and a more aggressive tune for 500. I'm currently out of country for work and want it done by the time i get back so I'm not really worried about spending the installation prices. Talked with MMR and they said they would build be a built short thats either a 4.65/5.3/5.4 for whatever application I want. Being out of country it's hard to call them and their email response time is kind of slow but thats to be expected, they are not a huge place. It looks like most of what they do is built off the cast iron block so I guess I'm adding a little bit of weight. This seems like the best way to go about it.

 

With the short block, building the tranny (better driveshaft also), and swapping the pully on the supercharger I should be around my budget and should be set. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some sort of "more efficient route" or something along those lines like "hey man your best bet is swapping to X or Y" ect.

 

Here's another angle I've considered. Why even bother with the extra displacement? Why not just save the money on adding displacement and put it towards beefing up the supercharger I already have and turning it up as much as my car can handle? Dollar for hp the stroker kits or built shorts really don't add up as well as just getting forged internals for the stock displacement and calling it quits as far as that is concerned. I could be wrong but this could be a good route to explore. Definetly still open to suggestions/feedback. Thanks so far for the help!

 

IF you go that route it can be expensive. ITs the route I took. I had the motor built. I added ID 1000 injectors, billet gears in the oil pump and the build itself. Tuning all done for a cool 10k. I haven't had a lick of trouble with it.