jlwdvm

So I got the springs (H & R's) and the mechanical ability to install the springs, but any warnings to avoid any pit falls would be helpful. Does the car need to be aligned afterwards, and if so, should I request anything specific from the alignment shop? Running SVT Shelby 19" rims with 255 front 285 rear Goodyear Supercar F1's. Thanks.

jsnyng

http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archi...tallation.aspx

You will need an alignment.

Video - http://www.motorz.tv/blog/2610/lowering-a-mustang/

Norm Peterson

Depending on what your car's actual cambers are now, and how much the new springs actually lower the car, you may end up with cambers that are outside the factory range. Factory range probably extends to -1.5° like it does for the earlier S197's.

At this point, you have the opportunity to have the alignment set more toward your own driving if your driving is consistently harder through the corners than average. Factory preferred is probably -0.75° (like for the earlier years), so you might want it set to -1° if you're a moderately hard driver or possibly more than that if you're unusually enthusiastic about cornering.


Regardless of what you want it set to, you want to use camber plates to get there. On a car with the '11 GT's capabilities, don't even think about using camber bolts (aka crash bolts). Better yet, forget I mentioned them, and forget that those things even exist.


Norm

jlwdvm

So If I am going to occaisonally auto cross and like to drive enthusiastically, should I just get camber plates installed at the same time I change the springs before I get it aligned? This isn't my daily driver, just a stress reliever!

jlwdvm

So, to install these springs that are supposed to lower the car 1.7" front and 2.4" rear, I need to install camber plates? They didn't show that in the video on the American Muscle site that showed them installing them on a 2011 GT (unless it already had them).

Norm Peterson

Yes. Otherwise you'll end up getting a lot of the work done twice.

For 1.7" lowering up front - if that's what you actually end up with - it would go over 1.2° more negative than it is now, and almost certainly end up outside the factory range. You could easily end up at or beyond -2°.

I really think you want to end up somewhere between -1° and -1.25° if it sees much daily use, possibly a little more if it's reserved as a weekend toy, but I can't pin it down any closer than that. The more you drive harder, the more negative you can get away with, but be honest with yourself about this (and pick a smaller negative number if you're the least bit unsure).


Just FWIW, 1.7" and 2.4" are a good bit beyond where the best cornering behavior lives (unless you were going to do a HUGE amount more work than just springs and camber plates, in which case you'd be asking different questions entirely).


Norm

jlwdvm

That begs the question: If I want the best cornering for a weekend car, what height spring drop should I look for and which camber plates are recommended. I can return the H & R's. Forgive me, my other 2 cars are a 67 and 69 firebird. This stuff is all new to me. Thanks

Norm Peterson

"Best cornering" is more than spring drop. Lots more. I'd rank the importance of spring drop well below that of the front and rear spring rates. The actual effect of a lower CG is less than it looks, and you give up some overall geometry goodness to get there.

I'd guess that at the swapping of springs/shocks/bars level of suspension tweaking, about an inch drop is where the best overall compromise among CG height, available spring rates, and geometry lies.

For camber correction, I'd go with either the Steeda HD upper strut mounts (which have some camber adjustment capability built in) or the Maximum Motorsports plates.


Norm

jlwdvm

Thanks for the input. I sent the H&R's back and ordered Ford Racing 1" drop springs and an adjustable PHB (those together cost a little more than the H&R's alone). From what I hear, I won't have to go to adjustable camber plates unless I want to drop it further or adjust more for autocrossing.

Will2Iam

I just ordered the eibach pro kit with camber adjustment bolts from AM for 240.00 shipped. I wanted to give it a shot to see if I like it for on a DD. Wanted to see how it would work with LCA and Relocation brackets. Also what kind of impact it will have if any on the angle of the rear end. Cause I'm really thinking about also doing the white line watts link.
In the case the shocks ware out early (That is to say early would be within a 12000 miles) and I find that I like the drop I'm buying a tuned system that includes shock and springs.