mach handling
Thread Starter
Mach I Section Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,140
From: round abouts these parts
well i look at the MM stuff and they are way overprice, i could buy it individually and come out a couple 100 better.
now that i have that figured out, how does the mach respond to engine mods, like CAI's turbos, s/c, methanol injection....that kinda thing.
now that i have that figured out, how does the mach respond to engine mods, like CAI's turbos, s/c, methanol injection....that kinda thing.
MM stuff is a little bit more expensive than other companies, but they are quality products and they have a lifetime warranty.
Mach's are 4v's so they respond pretty well to mods. Intake, exhaust and tune would put you over 300rwhp easily.
Mach's are 4v's so they respond pretty well to mods. Intake, exhaust and tune would put you over 300rwhp easily.
Thread Starter
Mach I Section Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,140
From: round abouts these parts
so bolt everythin on that will increase intake and reduce back pressure...thats what im getting.how expensive are he 4.6 mods compare to the 5.0
5.0 parts are much cheaper than Mach stuff. Especially things like headers. My Mach handles pretty good, but it kinda bobs up and down when I'm taking curves at high speeds, lowering would stop that. I don't experience understeer, but the rear will come around on ya without much warning. It happened to me the other night. I tried taking an onramp (clover leaf style ramp) as fast as possible just to see where it would give, and it didn't slowly start squeeling the tires, it just got sideways. It was easily corrected by letting off. Anyway, I would say leave the intake for now and go with some gears and then start on the exhaust. 4.10 gears are amazing in 4v cars since they are high rev motors. With my driving, I ran consistent 13.65 stock, and with my mods below run the time below. After the gears and exhaust get some good tires, Nittos or some other DR. If I had DRs, I would be in the 12s. Also some torque arms, mine wheel hops like crazy at the track when I hit 2nd. Check AmericanMuscle.com -they have alot of parts for all Mustangs and would help you see what you are getting into as far as modding goes on each.
Thread Starter
Mach I Section Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,140
From: round abouts these parts
5.0 parts are much cheaper than Mach stuff. Especially things like headers. My Mach handles pretty good, but it kinda bobs up and down when I'm taking curves at high speeds, lowering would stop that. I don't experience understeer, but the rear will come around on ya without much warning. It happened to me the other night. I tried taking an onramp (clover leaf style ramp) as fast as possible just to see where it would give, and it didn't slowly start squeeling the tires, it just got sideways. It was easily corrected by letting off. Anyway, I would say leave the intake for now and go with some gears and then start on the exhaust. 4.10 gears are amazing in 4v cars since they are high rev motors. With my driving, I ran consistent 13.65 stock, and with my mods below run the time below. After the gears and exhaust get some good tires, Nittos or some other DR. If I had DRs, I would be in the 12s. Also some torque arms, mine wheel hops like crazy at the track when I hit 2nd. Check AmericanMuscle.com -they have alot of parts for all Mustangs and would help you see what you are getting into as far as modding goes on each.
It's where the rear wheels start bouncing instead of hooking up or just spinning. Your skid marks will look like a dotted line versus a solid black mark. You know it's when it's doing hopping at the track because the whole car will start shaking and you'll hear it from the rear. It's a very bad thing because it can break axles, etc. It also kills your ET.


