1/4 mi. problems
#12
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
Didn't even think about that Sub, I can definetely see where LCAs would help on the corner exit by putting some weight over the axle when you power up.
Speaking of weight transfer/traction improvements. One cheap way to help some is by relocating the battery to the trunk. Thats what, an extra 35lbs or so over/behind the axle? You can order a kit for about $50 I think. Or you can possibly rig it up yourself.
Speaking of weight transfer/traction improvements. One cheap way to help some is by relocating the battery to the trunk. Thats what, an extra 35lbs or so over/behind the axle? You can order a kit for about $50 I think. Or you can possibly rig it up yourself.
#13
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
Rygi, honestly haven't had the chance to run them at a good strip yet, as I did most of these mods last summer right before I deployed, though I do know that when they're properly warmed up they hook like you're driving on fly-paper on the street.. A lot of guys haven't had real good experiences with them on the strip, and truthfully, BFG's and Mickey Thompson's make better drag radials, but they don't last near as long as the Nitto's do. That's why I have Nitto's on mine, because it's going to be a DD for a while yet, and I don't want to have to spend 2 or 3k a year on tires.. lol Hope that helps brudda..
and Stonie, DoD sponsored driving schools FTW.. LOL.. We had old crown vic's with the interceptor package that included LCA's and stiffer springs and you can definitely tell the difference in with vs. without on those things, especially on a road course when you're practicing J-turns at speed.. Keeps you from bogging and gives you the traction to keep you moving when somebody's trying to PIT you. lol
and Stonie, DoD sponsored driving schools FTW.. LOL.. We had old crown vic's with the interceptor package that included LCA's and stiffer springs and you can definitely tell the difference in with vs. without on those things, especially on a road course when you're practicing J-turns at speed.. Keeps you from bogging and gives you the traction to keep you moving when somebody's trying to PIT you. lol
#14
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
Thanks man. Just so ya know, the guy I know running with Nittos just said that for a street tire he thought they were good ones compared to other ones he'd ran, and it did sound like he was referenced in what he was saying. Personally, I'll wait till my Kumhos that were already on my car when I bought it run out though and will gladly do some clutch pedaling to save $.
#15
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
ok, im bonestock on street tires as well, and i noticed 2 things your doing wrong. 1)launching at 2.5k. You should be launching at 3k+ and feathering the clutch off the line then as soon as you catch let hell rain down on the 1320. 2) your shifting at 6200 rpm, try holding it out until 6600-6800.
on another note when you don't PS your losing .05-.1 for every shift so you losing .3-.5 IMO
on another note when you don't PS your losing .05-.1 for every shift so you losing .3-.5 IMO
#16
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
I ordered a set of j and m lcas when I had my GT and it was a great investment! on spray with 555Rs I ran a 1.73 60'! Without the spray had 1.90s easy! LCAs are a great investment as well as drs! but get an old set of wheels to put them on cuz u wil spend a lot of cash on tires if u don't!
#18
RE: 1/4 mi. problems
USMCrebel, thanks for the input. Thought about leaving higher rpm but just being careful with my DD. 6600-6800????? Damn. I shift @ 62-63 b/c looking at dynos of stock Machs, the hp curve topped out around there, maybe 63 or 64. I powershift every shift, and I'm good at it, but 2nd gear just is too much for the street tires.Maybe shifting higher, 65-66, will benefit that for sure.Thanks again man.
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