Since I have done a lot of threads about the other performance aspects, thought I should make one on drag suspension.
1st, I know ofsome parts, but have no idea what they cost or where to get them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

List:
-Drag Shocks
-Drag LaunchSprings
-Subframe Connectors -$150 welded on
-Rear Lower control arms-$125-$200
-Panhard bar
-ThickerRearSway bar
-Drag Radials -$350-$500
-Wider rims for rear and matching fronts

Possibly (I don't know if they help drag suspension stuff)
-K-member
-a-arms?
-upper control arms

Thanks for any help! And I don't know the stock 8.8 rear's limit in launching or stress from weight transfer, so please if you have input on it's limits, how to beef it up, or what type of rearto upgrade to when it's at it's limits that would be appreciated too. I don't have a clue what I want to do with my car, but I am now thinking that I won't be able to live with an unmodded car for a few yrs going f/i, so the flavor of the day() now is the ultimate n/a mach 1 (probably full bolt-ons, full drag suspension, and heads and intake, I don't know about cams b/c they will cost a few thousand dollars installed). It's my b-day and I hopefully will have a decision on what to do with my car/what parts to order by the end of next week as my b-day gift, so any input on that would be appreciated too(not sure if I should continue performance/hp mods or suspension/traction mods).

Edit: I know this will be a costly project, but I think it will be cooler than f/i alone and in the long run I would have spent over $8k in mods and a turbocharger. Like I said, I can't wait that long for f/i so this is a good solution. Plus I think it will be cooler getting a mach 1 that's n/a to low 11's and possibly10's (with some weight savings this is my goal in the long run but am not sure it's possible) then a 10sec turbocharged mach. Same goals, just different methods and probably a little more costly this way.

 

any weight reduction you do will = better times, a tubular K member will shave i think about 30lbs (about a tenth)
rims a good choice for drag rims is cheap 15" welds and you want skinny's up front remember weight savings. i will make one suggestion though DR's are nice for running in town, but just up it to slicks you'll see 12.7-12.9 with just that on bone stock suspension. BUT you will need moser 31 spline axels and a moser Diffrential to hanndle the repeated stress, throw 4.30's in mid-low 12's......the best cams for the money in our mach is the ford Gt cams but still like 1200....the key to Drag racing is weight reduction and weight transfer.


4 link suspension

aluminum Ds

lightweight flywheel

intake spacer

 

Steel, i've been think about what it would take for you to run 11's in the 1/4, and i've come up with this.

4 link rear suspension
LCA ( dont know if it works with 4 link the same)
Slicks/ Skinny's
moser 31 spline & Diff
RAI/CAI
Intake spacer
Tubular K member
aluminum DS
Light weight flywheel
Mccleod clutch
remove front sway bar
remove spare tire/ jack
4.56's (4.30's for dd capability)
Subframe connectors
dyno tune

that should get you HIGH 11's maybe upper mid 11's...if better someone will correct me.

 

You need to explain some stuff to me b/c I'm confused on somethings.

1. What does a 4-link or I looked up 5-link rear suspension actually do? What type of gains(ET) or things can I see from this alone? (Ex:Front end jumping up from weight transfer, .2 off 60ft, etc.) Is it worth the cost($1300 + install possibly cause I don't have the tools for it)? Would I need the moser differential and 31 spline before getting this? And I found no lower control arms or upper control arms will work with these I'm 99% sure.

2. The tubular k-member is supposed to take off 30lbs, but I thought it takes 100lbs of non-rotational mass of to gain 1 tenth in the 1/4 even if it is from the front of the car?

3. Are 4.30's that bad on highway mileage? RPM's at 65/70mph if you got em. If not I'll just look em up.

4. You'd suggest doing suspension mods before any more power mods correct? I am looking probably to do a little suspension if I can and an aluminum driveshaft, maybe gears, depending on how much money I wanna spend for my b-day. Probably no more than $1.5k-$2k. (And I'll hold off on Slicks and Drag Rims for now b/c I am daily driving the car and not gonna go for ET's till all is said and done suspension wise and performance wise, maybe when just suspension is done to see how good the suspension stuff helped)

Thanks again rebel! You sure now a **** load about cars.

3.

 

i didnt think there would be any LCA that would work with teh 4 link suspension. again im not sure on the weight savings on the tubular k member it was a guesstimate. but 100lbs is .1 but i see that as more of a general rule, jack is what 10-20 lbs k member 30lbs spare is another 20 lbs there's 70, and with DR ( not slicks) i see that taking off a .1 maytbe more.when you reduce weight and add traction general rules are just a guideline. if your gonna be dragging the first thing i would do is get the DR (depends), drag springs, (from steeda or MM), LCA, panhard bar, basically the cheap stuff upfront, to see how your car will react. i know in my new project i will be using some really really oldschool stuff that doesnt get used much any more....thank god for old timers

 

Cool, thanks for the input.

 

I forgot, I know I will need the moser differential and 31 spline at some point. So say I get drag radials, drag launch springs, panhard bar, lca, and subframe connectors. What would be a safe playing around launching rpm that I won't break anything(rearend wise)on the street. Possibly equate gears into the equation too (not sure of 4.10s/4.30s yet). Igotta pick your gear head brain for as much stuff as I can get

 

lol, yeah i launch at 4k rpm on stock stuff, and get ok traction with my pathetic 245/17/ 400 @44psi. but the 8.8 is a lot stronger than most give it credit for. the DR's will be what shocks the rear end the worst, but your still GTG.

using .62 gear ratio,
80mph at gear ratio:
3.55 = 2304
3.73 = 2421
4.10 = 2661
4.30 = 2791
4.56 = 2960

 

Wow this is going to be very costly going this route, hmmm, I gotta think about what to do and see. Maybe I need to make a poll and get suggestions.

 

in all honesty steel, the best thing you could do N/A
4.30's
springs
subframes
intake spacer (torque)
DR
aluminum DS

i think that might yield you the best results for the money.