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Old 01-10-2010, 07:55 PM
  #21  
01snake
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sounds like you have the bolt on area covered

some people will just throw a blower on..which is fine as long as you keep it safe. but if you plan on wanting more power its a good idea to do the motor first. this way less of a hassel (taking blower back off, reinstall etc..). i heard a good rule of thumb when having a blower or F/I is too put money aside little by little for the motor "just" in case lol.


id do a clutch before anything..you will roast that thing to pieces


furinox sounds like you got one helll of a deal on that blower
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:02 AM
  #22  
HamMach1
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Originally Posted by 01snake
sounds like you have the bolt on area covered

some people will just throw a blower on..which is fine as long as you keep it safe. but if you plan on wanting more power its a good idea to do the motor first. this way less of a hassel (taking blower back off, reinstall etc..). i heard a good rule of thumb when having a blower or F/I is too put money aside little by little for the motor "just" in case lol.


id do a clutch before anything..you will roast that thing to pieces


furinox sounds like you got one helll of a deal on that blower
When you say roasting the clutch to pieces, is that assuming I'll be driving spirited a lot?

I'm thinking either a full Eaton kit or a P-1SC and run low boost for maybe 400 rwhp for starters. Then once I build up the internals I'll up the boost.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:13 AM
  #23  
Stone629
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Originally Posted by HamMach1
Would there be anything "wrong" or "pointless" if I were to maybe build up the engine (forged internals) first, to prepare for a blower in the future? Of course, assuming I could only do one or the other (building up the engine and getting a blower at the same time being NOT an option).
Sort of, but nothing major. The only problem with building the engine, say a year before you do a blower, is that you'll be driving on a little less power than you would on a NA unbuilt engine. Reason being is that forged internals are heavier than the non forged parts, and also because most likely whoever builds your engine for FI is going to lower the compression to make better use of the upcoming boost. So, its a slight drawback not doing everything at once, but you do what you gotta do sometimes.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:19 AM
  #24  
Stone629
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Originally Posted by HamMach1
When you say roasting the clutch to pieces, is that assuming I'll be driving spirited a lot?

I'm thinking either a full Eaton kit or a P-1SC and run low boost for maybe 400 rwhp for starters. Then once I build up the internals I'll up the boost.
Or hooking it. Traction is usually what breaks parts and burns up clutches. If you stay on street tires and don't power shift into gears like 4th and 5th that put strain on your clutch due to not being able to spin the tires, then you should be okay for awhile. Its still a good idea to upgrade your clutch though. Its not necessarily going to go up in smoke on you right off the bat, or just because you give it hell from time to time, but it is going to wear out twice as fast with an extra 100 rwhp. I would upgrade it and be done with it.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:38 AM
  #25  
HamMach1
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Originally Posted by Stone629
Or hooking it. Traction is usually what breaks parts and burns up clutches. If you stay on street tires and don't power shift into gears like 4th and 5th that put strain on your clutch due to not being able to spin the tires, then you should be okay for awhile. Its still a good idea to upgrade your clutch though. Its not necessarily going to go up in smoke on you right off the bat, or just because you give it hell from time to time, but it is going to wear out twice as fast with an extra 100 rwhp. I would upgrade it and be done with it.
I'll take that into consideration. I'm not too worried about powershifting into 4th though, even now I have only gone through the gears 4 times, and that was all at the track. When I drive spirited, to me that means shifting at like 4,000 rpm instead of my usual 2,000 lol.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:17 AM
  #26  
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if you upgrade your clutch prepare to upgrade everything else as well...the stock weak 28 splines will not hold on long...
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Old 01-11-2010, 02:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by USMCrebel
if you upgrade your clutch prepare to upgrade everything else as well...the stock weak 28 splines will not hold on long...


My stock clutch lasted 2 weeks after installing the blower. The 28 spline stuff is fine as long as you run street tires. I ran my stock rearend for a year after having the blower and never had a problem with it. I recently switched to a 03/04 cobra IRS though.

I went with 10cc pistons that lowered my compression to about a 9.1:1. If I did it again I'd put flat tops in it and stick with 10:1.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:08 PM
  #28  
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With all this upgrading, is this, again, assuming I'll be racing? Would I have to worry about the clutch and bottom end when I daily drive it like your typical Camry driver?

Perhaps if I drive spirited or take it to the track often, but I would think I'd be good to go for a while since I don't really push the Mach very hard. With that being said, regardless of my driving style, I do plan on beefing up to a 31 spline.

I'm really leaning towards an Eaton kit though. Not only do I live near a guy on M1R that pieces these kits together for people (LOOKnGO), so that'll save on shipping cost, and then another buddy on M1R, and who also lives near me, would help me install it so that'll cut the cost of install/labor.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:17 PM
  #29  
rygi23
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Originally Posted by HamMach1
With all this upgrading, is this, again, assuming I'll be racing? Would I have to worry about the clutch and bottom end when I daily drive it like your typical Camry driver?

Perhaps if I drive spirited or take it to the track often, but I would think I'd be good to go for a while since I don't really push the Mach very hard. With that being said, regardless of my driving style, I do plan on beefing up to a 31 spline.

I'm really leaning towards an Eaton kit though. Not only do I live near a guy on M1R that pieces these kits together for people (LOOKnGO), so that'll save on shipping cost, and then another buddy on M1R, and who also lives near me, would help me install it so that'll cut the cost of install/labor.
the stock clutch will go, but hey get your $ worth out of it. Stock axles okay for street driving with street tires and at the track w/ street tires only if you're easy with her off the line. I'd just do the 31 spline, the inevitable $ for a tow home would be saved. Have fun with it.
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:06 PM
  #30  
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things will last until you learn about traction and slicks...then they break.
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