NEW - Hydraulic or cable clutch on '68 mustang with foxbody 302
12-03-2017, 10:25 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: CA
Posts: 15
NEW - Hydraulic or cable clutch on '68 mustang with foxbody 302
I'm a new member, looking for your feedback because my clutch has me stalled!
Clutch actuation, that is. Can't decide to go cable or hydraulic?! Seems like a path of pitfalls, and lots have struggled with not enough clutch lever travel at the bellhousing. Some guys 'preloading' their clutch fingers to get full release, riding their throwout bearing full time. Call me old fashioned but that just sounds insane to me. Lmk what you did and how yours works, dying to get this pony on the trail!!
I'm removing a tired old 302 w/C4 auto out of my '68 coupe and replacing it with a completely rebuilt late '80's roller lifter 302 and a Tremec T5z manual. Short block is rebuilt to stock specs but with all ARP, with stock forged pistons that looked a little flatter topped than yours. Stock 8.1:1 compression. I went with Trick Flow 160 heads, roller 1.7:1 lifters and a B303 cam. It'll inhale thru a 600 Edelbrock 4 bbl carb and DP manifold, exhale thru Flowtech ceramic headers and planning on 2 1/2" X-pipe exhaust. I'm trying to eeek out a few extra ponies by using a Canton windage tray on a Canton main girdle and a Canton RR oil pan with baffles. Also looking into dual electric fans, maybe, just maybe, an electric water pump (Maziere?). Wish I could tell you how awesome it runs, but I'm stalled making radiator decisions (it's hot af in the summer where I live), front accessory drive (6 or 8 rib serp?), and the clutch decisions.
Albert
1968 Mustang coupe, 302/C4 auto
Building roller 302 and conv to T5z manual
4 piston SSBC front discs
8.8" Ltd slip disc rear from '98 Explorer V8
Global West front upper control arms with roller perches
KYB shocks
Clutch actuation, that is. Can't decide to go cable or hydraulic?! Seems like a path of pitfalls, and lots have struggled with not enough clutch lever travel at the bellhousing. Some guys 'preloading' their clutch fingers to get full release, riding their throwout bearing full time. Call me old fashioned but that just sounds insane to me. Lmk what you did and how yours works, dying to get this pony on the trail!!
I'm removing a tired old 302 w/C4 auto out of my '68 coupe and replacing it with a completely rebuilt late '80's roller lifter 302 and a Tremec T5z manual. Short block is rebuilt to stock specs but with all ARP, with stock forged pistons that looked a little flatter topped than yours. Stock 8.1:1 compression. I went with Trick Flow 160 heads, roller 1.7:1 lifters and a B303 cam. It'll inhale thru a 600 Edelbrock 4 bbl carb and DP manifold, exhale thru Flowtech ceramic headers and planning on 2 1/2" X-pipe exhaust. I'm trying to eeek out a few extra ponies by using a Canton windage tray on a Canton main girdle and a Canton RR oil pan with baffles. Also looking into dual electric fans, maybe, just maybe, an electric water pump (Maziere?). Wish I could tell you how awesome it runs, but I'm stalled making radiator decisions (it's hot af in the summer where I live), front accessory drive (6 or 8 rib serp?), and the clutch decisions.
Albert
1968 Mustang coupe, 302/C4 auto
Building roller 302 and conv to T5z manual
4 piston SSBC front discs
8.8" Ltd slip disc rear from '98 Explorer V8
Global West front upper control arms with roller perches
KYB shocks
12-03-2017, 10:39 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: CA
Posts: 15
I should have added, I bought a new old stock Tremec T5z, and found a used Modern Driveline cable clutch setup. The cable has lots of resistance, so to use it I'd hafta at least replace the clutch cable ($130). Currently got long tube headers on it, and realize there are issues with cable clutches and LT's, but also have a new pair of Flowtech shorty ceramics, and those are what I intend to use going forward.
That being said, I'd love the smooth actuation of a hydraulic clutch, and I'm researching options to get it right the first time, which isn't easy, I've read. Many hydraulic kits from MDL, Steve's Mustang, etc. that use the Wilwood m/c and say a CNC slave don't get much more than 1" travel at the bellhousing, and some have posted that they preload the clutch slightly to ensure full disengagement. That to me is a bad compromise and I won't spend all that money to have it work like poop.
For the money, it's obviously cheapest to get a fresh cable and see how it works, it's just that I'd like it to work really well, that's all...
That being said, I'd love the smooth actuation of a hydraulic clutch, and I'm researching options to get it right the first time, which isn't easy, I've read. Many hydraulic kits from MDL, Steve's Mustang, etc. that use the Wilwood m/c and say a CNC slave don't get much more than 1" travel at the bellhousing, and some have posted that they preload the clutch slightly to ensure full disengagement. That to me is a bad compromise and I won't spend all that money to have it work like poop.
For the money, it's obviously cheapest to get a fresh cable and see how it works, it's just that I'd like it to work really well, that's all...
12-04-2017, 02:11 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: CA
Posts: 15
