I personally know that. A lot of people like to disagree with that.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with RP, and evidence clearly shows, it is one of the best oils on the market by far. Despite the prices, you get what you pay for. The backing of a Famous oil company, widely used in NHRA and NMRA race-cars, and tons of street stangs.

I do like Amsoil a lot though. I figured I'd give it a shot, just because I know it's comparable if not better than RP, and a pinch cheaper.

 

eeehhhh
yeas and no...
there would be evidence of it, but unless its majorly bad, the oil should take it down the the pan. when i broke down my engine the heads were not too bad, but there was a LOT in the pan (but that engine is 17 years old lol.

now the reason they say that is that back in the day when syn fist came out it would gauge sludge when it and mineral oil cam together. easy way to tell if RP does this.
take glass
fill 1/3 with RP
fill 1/3 with mineral oil
heat and serve

 

interesting once my new motor gets 6,0000 miles I am going to RP...

 

im starting my mopar 390 on some good mobil, doing an oil change at 1k, then mobil 1 till 5k, then RP from then on

 

Mobil1 5w-50 every 300-400 miles tops

 

I have used both Royal Purple and Mobil 1. I will say this, Royal purple is a better oil than Mobil 1.

 

which do you guys recommend for a higher HP car, RP or Mobile 1?

 

This is a totally noob question, so I know I'm in for some flak.

What is oil with mineral and oil without it?
What are the differences?
What are the benefits of mineral?
What are the drawbacks of mineral?
What are the benefits of non-mineral?
What are the drawbacks of non-mineral?

 

I'm going to assume you are referring to group II petroleum (dino) oil when you say mineral versus a true 100% synthetic.

What is oil with mineral and oil without it?

Just about every oil on the shelf that is not 100% full synthetic has group II or group III base stock in it. I don't care if they call a group III "synthetic" in the USA, that won't fly anywhere else in the world. Group III hydrocracked oil still has impurities in it. The only oil you can count on to be 100% synthetic is made by AMSOIL, Red Line, or Royal Purple. If you see "synthetic" on the bottle....is has dino oil in it. If it says "100% full synthetic" on the bottle...it's a group IV/V true synthetic.

What are the differences?

http://www.driven2modify.com/showthread.php?t=25162

What are the benefits of mineral?

Honestly, other than a cheaper price tag, and that's not saying a lot, nothing. You actually save money with a true 100% synthetic due to it's ability of extended drain intervals. While doing so, your engine is protected better.

What are the drawbacks of mineral?

Shorter lubricant life, less engine wear protection, engine runs hotter (more friction), engine is less efficient, etc.

What are the benefits of non-mineral?

Longer drain intervals, better anti-wear agents, engine runs cooler (less friction), engine is more efficient (less friction), etc.

What are the drawbacks of non-mineral?

More expensive, but not actually. You will spend less money on a full 100% synthetic in a year versus a conventional dino oil. You can do one oil change per year with AMSOIL, up to 25,000 miles.

Even Mobil 1 once had a 25,000 mile oil in the 1970's, but they decided it cut their profits way to much. They made much more money on cheap dino lubricants than selling their top shelf 100% full synthetic. Mobil 1 is about profit, and what works best for them. AMSOIL is about formulating the best PERIOD, and what works best for the consumer.

 

^^^ Im glad you type that out cause I sure didnt want to. lol