CEL = check engine light. WOT = wide open throttle.

Ok, not sure if you'll actually listen to me or not, but I'm gonna give my advice anyway. And all the advice I'm gonna give will come from experience and not just soemthing I read. So it's probably gonna be good advice

First, lets talk fuel pumps. The 255lph inline is great, but if you're gonna build good power, it's not gonna cut it. You need to get a 255lph intank pump as well. They can be had for $100 brand new (Walbro pumps too, good quality.) The inline pump will help keep the pressure up while the intank will help keep the supply up.

Next comes the FMU. Lose it. Well don't lsoe it, sell it on eBay. But remove it.

Now for the injectors. If all you are going to do is run 10# of boost, then you can get away with 30# injectors. However, if you are going to do anything down the road (cylinder heads, camshaft, intake manifold... AKA H/C/I) or if you are going to add a nitrous dry kit, then get larger injectors now so you don't have to buy them twice. A good set of 42# injectors should carry you a long way for now.

As far as the MAF. You have a procahrger, which is a blow through setup (as you already know.) That means you want a blow through MAF and not a draw through MAF. I HIGHLY recommend the PMAS Pro-Tube MAF. They are 3" ( about 76mm) and are typically about $255 new, and $150 - $200 used.

In my previous post, I had mentioned "pegging the meter." I don't know how much you know about a MAF, but basically they measure airflo and translate it to a voltage. It can only go up to 5v though. I can't recall the exact number, but I think the stock meters can read up to 880 kg/h of air (or somwhere near that.) That means that when 880 kg/h of air flows, the meter is reading 5v and cannot measure any more air. At that point, the Check Engine Light comes on and your car loses a LOT of performance (and can even get damaged.) When you peg the meter, that means you need a larger MAF. When i say larger MAF, i don't mean a physicalyl alrger MAF. I just mean that it needs to be calibrated for larger injectors. That will raise the max air that can be measured before it reaches 5v. My PMAS Pro-Tube MAF doesn't hit 5v until about 1800 kg/h of airflow (it's calibrated for 42# injectors.)

Finally, after it's all said and done, get a dyno tune. Stay away from the mail order chips and do it right the first time. But don't waste money on chips either. When you are finished modding, then get the chip then. Else you'll find yourself buying them over and over again. Another alternative is to get a Tweecer or an Anderson PMS and tune the car yourself. But if you are going to do that, make damn sure you know what youre doing, else you can kill your engine, computer, or both.

Hopefully that will steer you in the right direction and hopefully it wasn't too confusing. Of course, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

 

^^^^^ good advise

 

Right on SAMSEED101!!! i totally understand. Def. some useful information. Now i have a ford lightning maf sitting in my garage my buddy gave me. could i use that? and where can i get it calibrated. The injectors i could get from ebay right. And the fuel pump? prolly get the best deal there. And you say keep both fuel pumps and ditch the fmu, now what would i set my timing at? i have it at 8* now. I still have the 8 lb pully on and i really dont want to change it untill i get the car up to more boost ya kno.


Thanx.

 

im pretty sure around 450 is all you wanna push with stock internals

 

thats not the right way to tune a blown motor. you want to set the base to 10 and use a chip or ems to tune the motor. you wont get max performance trying to tune it using base timing

 

Use a chip or ems????