TRexGAWD

Lol, what? The size of the egine is more than large enough to produce that kind of power.. Are you talking about the internal capability maybe?.. If so that has nothing to do with how much "air" it can flow even with stock heads.. You can force anything through, just depends on how much abuse it can take..

They can.. The CFM rating at max efficiency is capably of 600 for that size of engine.. Is it the best or most reliable? No but it can do it..

swine

Agreed ^

LilRoush

Actually, no you can't. I'm aware the size of the engine can make the power. (I had one of the highest hp V6 pushrod Mustangs out there.) I've spent over a decade designing/prototyping/building boosted V6 Mustangs.

My point is that are a certain spot, all that extra boost means nothing at all because it won't go into the stock intake/heads fast enough. If he wants to get to that hp level, it's going to take a nice rotating assembly, lots of head/valve train/cam work and enough fuel to supply all that extra air.

Getting to those big numbers is a LOT more than tossing on a couple of turbos.

swine

Not that i have a dog in this race, but what makes you think the current stock v-6 doesnt have the head flow to reach those numbers?

A 3.7 na v6 making 305hp is not to shabby. Not many v-6's or 6 cylinders in general make more power then that in stock form. The hp compared with its displacement and redline and usually pretty good key indicators of head flow. I would surmise off the basic indicators im looking at, that the head flow on the new v-6 is well above average and should be considered good(but not great).

LilRoush

Because the high boost stock cars aren't getting close to double the hp out of them without head work. The best I've seen are still only 500hp builds. Unless there's a build I don't know about...in which case I retract my statement and would love to see some more details about what was done to the car.

JMPJack

More pics and updates tonight!

a_lopez1975

Good luck on the build. Looking forward to any progress..

JMPJack

I want to touch on this because it was borderline insulting, which I think is a little uncalled for. I'm going to explain the fundamentals of an intercooler. An intercooler is made out of aluminum, whether it be air to air or liquid to air. It works by absorbing the heat from the air flowing through it. So, it's important to take into account the temp of the material (aluminum) being used and how it is cooled (by air or liquid) because hot aluminum isn't going to cool the air going through it as much as cold aluminum; the hot aluminum will do nothing but become heat soaked, rendering it pointless. So in conclusion, my research is 100% complete and correct. I've also been building boosted cars for many years.

JMPJack

Life owns me, I didn't get to spend as much time on it as I wanted this weekend but here are a few pics. I got the turbos mounted, however, I've decided I'm going to redo it and tuck them up even higher. As of now, looking even with the bottom of the car they sit about an inch too low. It's going to be a PITA but it'll be worth it. I also had to use the factory ball flanges because the ones I ordered didn't seal right. I'm going to have some made once I finish the final design of the pieces.











Tonight my plan is to get the injectors and KB Boost-a-pump installed, I've got some more steel on the way to tighten up the turbo mounting. Thankfully it looks like there's going to be just enough room to route the intakes up into the bay just around the bellhousing so they won't be directly on the turbos.

swine

Looking good.

To be fair on your I/C arguement, an air to water is fine for a street car, but if extended use like on a track car the liquid will eventually get very hot and be worse then any heatsoaked air to air.

What capacity are you planning on running?

Also, im guessing you only have experience with certain aftermarket air to air I/C's. The aftermarket easily gets your typical air/air I/C wrong. They get lost in pressure drop, cfm, and row density numbers. Typically their cores are pretty dang heavy, and thusly retain more heat. If you ever get a chance, go play with an OEM STI or EVO I/C. Its crazy how light they are. On the dyno with your typical fan set-up, they will be cool to the touch with-in ~15 sec of a full pull. The same cannot be said for their aftermarket counter parts.

Anyways, i could see this going down a rabbit hole, sorry to derail. I think air to waters will work perfectly fine for a street car/drag car, and also have packaging benefits that help with cost and design work. All good things.

Looking forward to seeing a finished product.