i'm looking at the eiback sportline kit. its a 1.6" drop in the front and a 2" drop in the rear. can i install these without swapping shocks and struts?

 

I don't know, can you? If you can't and you have to pay someone to do the installation for wait and do them at the same time. As far as the springs fitting, sure they willbut the struts and dampers will not last long and then your ride will be all bouncey and dangerous handling when you drive it hard. Sportlines are too low for the street and your rear axle will be hitting the stops and causeing your car to handle very poorly, even dangerously on bumpy roads when pushed much at all. A much better choice would be a set of Pro-Kit or Steeda's regular Sport springs especialy if you line where it snows and this is a daily driver. The amazing thing is that you can even drive into driveways without scraping your chassis all the heckwith Pro-Kit springs. You will be replacing your struts and dampers shortly after you install Sportlines and then you will have to pay to have the struts and rear dampers removed and replaced a second time. Save up your money and do them at the same time, the money you save will pay for the spring set!

Cheers

 

Listen to F1Fan. Save your money and get a set of Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers and install them at the same time. If you decide to go with the Sportlines you will also need some way to adjust the camber, either camber bolts or adjustment plates. Lots of guy run the Sportlines on the street but I’m like F1Fan I think they have too much drop to be practical. I have the Steeda Ultra-Lites and the drop is about 1 inch in front and 1 ½ in the rear. I can actually drive around without being afraid of every drive way entrance and pot hole.

Earl

 

Iwould go with a pro-kit. Sportlines and those 20's wont be fun

 

burnout083

I went with the Eibach Pro Kit and FRPP Dampers. I agree with F1Fan that for a street application the ride height of the Pro Kit is good. I have had cars lowered more than this and I can tell you from experience that it gets quite expensive every time you park your carand hit acurb, not to mention the damage you that can happen every time you go over a speed bump. Also if you go with the Sportlines you will probably have to go with a relocation kit for the front control arms along with the camber adjusters retfr8flyr mentioned (and perhaps a bump steer kit) to get your front suspension geometry back in shape. Also you will probably have to install a relocation kit for the rear trailing arms to get everything right.

Second,if you go with springs that are not to low then you can probably get away with not changing the dampers. When I lived in south Florida (I now live in SoCal) my office was about a mile from Steeda's Pompano headquarters. Before I modified my Mustang’s suspension, I stopped into Steedafor a quote(I have gone with many Steeda suspension and engine components). They quoted me on their springs (which did not lower the car quite as much as the Eibach Pro Kit which I went with) and said that I did not have to replace the stock dampers with their springs, they said that the stock dampers were very good and that if I changed out the dampers the ride would be very stiff (attached is my original hand written Steeda quote). They were right, I ended up going with the FRPP dampers (along with the Eibach Pro Kit) and the ride is very stiff, probably to stiff for a street andoccasional track application, but it handles great. Most shops will recommend that you change out the dampers with the springs since everything is already apart and there is really no additional labor to change out the dampers at the same time. If I had not changed out the stock dampers when I changed out the springs I would probably wish I had.

Good luck with your ride!

[IMG]local://upfiles/63299/4900B88CDAB04D4D89690E3559117038.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hey!

The FRPP dampers can bepretty jiggly as I have posted many timesover and over many monhts ago BUT they work great in a performance application and on the track! I would go nuts with dampers that are calibrated like the FRPP damper kit. The problem is that they used the samethinking as Ford did when coming up with a calibration for the stock GT suspension and operate under the mistaken idea that to a Mustang buyer performance suspension means hard riding cars with too much compression damping and not enough rebound damping. If they had ever driven a Bilstien HD damped car they would know this is not the case. Of course the Bilstiens would have cost Ford a lot more to add to the car so out they go.You can always sell those pretty blue FRPP struts and rear dampers and install a set of the stealthy dark grey D-Specs and regain your ride and improve your rough road handling if you get fed up with the FRPP's. Somekid who doesn't know any better won't mind them for a few years until they get a chance to drive a car with more sophisticated suspension design and calibration.

Cheers!

 

Not with those springs. I used roush with stock struts, and I did not like the ride. You will blow out the struts, and the car will ride like do-do. Take this from somebody who has been there, done that[]

 

See post #2 where I said the stock struts and dampers will not last long (blow out), if he installs Sportlines on stock dampers.

Cheers!

 

F1Fan:

You are definitely right about the FRPP damper's valving. I don't mind the hard ride as much asthe quick rebound, that’s what gets me. As you know from other exchanges, my last car was an E39with H&R sports and Koni's,so as you can imagine I was not expecting such a harsh ride when I choose themods for myStang.I will changethe damperssomeday, maybe next year, if and when the Konis come out.In the mean time Iintend to get my money's worth out ofthe dampers I have.

Best Regards