Suspension guru's help!
12-15-2007, 06:38 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location:
Posts: 697
Suspension guru's help!
Hey everyone,
Im looking into doing some suspension upgrades to the stang. I intend to build a very good handling car, with the intention of increasing the fun factor, even if I have to sacrifice some ride quality. This car will probably never see a drag strip more than once or twice in its life, so I would like to maximize the "handling" aspects of the car. Please keep in mind, I live in NYC, so the roads arent fantastic. I dont want to be dragging the snow down the street with me either as it is a daily driver.
Please comment on the pro's and cons of each component.
At the top of my list, or stage 1 is the following:
1. Lowering springs- Please advise as to which might be the best for my situation. I am thinking the Steeda Sport Springs, as they lower the car about an inch, as opposed to 1.5 like some other springs I've seen.
2. Tokico D-Specs- these seem to be the best stuff out there... not sure if there are any comparable struts/shocks out there, please advise.
3. A Panhard bar, and a panhard brace: my ultimate goal is to lower the brace (i think its the brace) about a half an inch or an inch, and at the SAME TIME upgrade these pieces. I have a rattle in my exhaust (Pypes mid muffler system) which seems to be coming from the brace, and the over-axle pipe touching ever so slightly. Not sure who makes the best ones, I believe CHE (told from another member) makes one that is lower than stock. If lowering the height of the bar/brace is not an option, just tell me whats best for my setup.
Anything I need to compliment this first stage?? Dont want to harm any other suspension parts at the same time?
Will I need an alignment afterwards?
Any advice, or help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Im looking into doing some suspension upgrades to the stang. I intend to build a very good handling car, with the intention of increasing the fun factor, even if I have to sacrifice some ride quality. This car will probably never see a drag strip more than once or twice in its life, so I would like to maximize the "handling" aspects of the car. Please keep in mind, I live in NYC, so the roads arent fantastic. I dont want to be dragging the snow down the street with me either as it is a daily driver.
Please comment on the pro's and cons of each component.
At the top of my list, or stage 1 is the following:
1. Lowering springs- Please advise as to which might be the best for my situation. I am thinking the Steeda Sport Springs, as they lower the car about an inch, as opposed to 1.5 like some other springs I've seen.
2. Tokico D-Specs- these seem to be the best stuff out there... not sure if there are any comparable struts/shocks out there, please advise.
3. A Panhard bar, and a panhard brace: my ultimate goal is to lower the brace (i think its the brace) about a half an inch or an inch, and at the SAME TIME upgrade these pieces. I have a rattle in my exhaust (Pypes mid muffler system) which seems to be coming from the brace, and the over-axle pipe touching ever so slightly. Not sure who makes the best ones, I believe CHE (told from another member) makes one that is lower than stock. If lowering the height of the bar/brace is not an option, just tell me whats best for my setup.
Anything I need to compliment this first stage?? Dont want to harm any other suspension parts at the same time?
Will I need an alignment afterwards?
Any advice, or help is much appreciated.
Thanks
12-15-2007, 07:10 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,313
RE: Suspension guru's help!
I am in the same boat as you with researching all those parts.
But something to think about is if you lower the car, you may think about getting those LCA relocation brackets to get the same or better angle. If the LCA is horizontal then I believe it loses its function of pushing the rear axle down and preventing wheel hop.
The plans you have seem like a solid start. Springs, shocks, panhard bar and brace should idealy be done at the same time. CHE makes a panhard brace that has the drop down design to clear the exhaust. BMR does too just not as big a step down.
Its what I am getting to clear the Pypes MM pipes.
But something to think about is if you lower the car, you may think about getting those LCA relocation brackets to get the same or better angle. If the LCA is horizontal then I believe it loses its function of pushing the rear axle down and preventing wheel hop.
The plans you have seem like a solid start. Springs, shocks, panhard bar and brace should idealy be done at the same time. CHE makes a panhard brace that has the drop down design to clear the exhaust. BMR does too just not as big a step down.
Its what I am getting to clear the Pypes MM pipes.
12-15-2007, 10:12 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 1,778
RE: Suspension guru's help!
There was just a post the other night listing the front and rear drop for most of the popular springs. I believe the Steeda Ultralights and Roush both drop it about an inch.
The D-Specs are great and the most popular on this forum. Although many have said they like the Koni's and Bilsteins. I like the adjustability of the D-Specs.
You may have read posts by 'F1Fan' (if not you should do an Author search on his posts). According to him the PH bar is more important than a lot of people give it credit for if you are into handling. He recommends going with a very high quality adjustable like the Steeda or Spohn which are chrom-moly as opposed to mild steel (like the CHE and BMR).
With a 1" drop you may not need reloc brackets. You can put a level on them before and after. If they are parallel to the ground or slightly up (axle lower than chassis) then you will be fine, especially since its not a drag car.
Up front - a 1" drop *may* put your front wheels into a bit of negative camber (every car seems to be different). Thats not a bad thing but too much negative camber can wear the inside of your tires. Thus its probably a good idea to get a form of camber adjustment: 1) bolts, 2) shims, 3) camber plates/strut mounts.
Those 4 items: springs, dampers, PH bar and camber plates (steeda, J&M or MM); should get you what you want. Try it and see how you like it. You can always add more later: UCA, LCAs, bump stop kit, rear sway, adjustable endlinks, G-trac brace, etc, etc.
After install you do want to get an alignment but its not a immediate must have. Drive it a little, make adjustments, let the springs settle in. Then go get the alignment. Before you get it aligned figure out what toe and camber settings you want and make sure they do both sides spot on. Don't let them take the easy road and just set it to factory specs.
The D-Specs are great and the most popular on this forum. Although many have said they like the Koni's and Bilsteins. I like the adjustability of the D-Specs.
You may have read posts by 'F1Fan' (if not you should do an Author search on his posts). According to him the PH bar is more important than a lot of people give it credit for if you are into handling. He recommends going with a very high quality adjustable like the Steeda or Spohn which are chrom-moly as opposed to mild steel (like the CHE and BMR).
With a 1" drop you may not need reloc brackets. You can put a level on them before and after. If they are parallel to the ground or slightly up (axle lower than chassis) then you will be fine, especially since its not a drag car.
Up front - a 1" drop *may* put your front wheels into a bit of negative camber (every car seems to be different). Thats not a bad thing but too much negative camber can wear the inside of your tires. Thus its probably a good idea to get a form of camber adjustment: 1) bolts, 2) shims, 3) camber plates/strut mounts.
Those 4 items: springs, dampers, PH bar and camber plates (steeda, J&M or MM); should get you what you want. Try it and see how you like it. You can always add more later: UCA, LCAs, bump stop kit, rear sway, adjustable endlinks, G-trac brace, etc, etc.
After install you do want to get an alignment but its not a immediate must have. Drive it a little, make adjustments, let the springs settle in. Then go get the alignment. Before you get it aligned figure out what toe and camber settings you want and make sure they do both sides spot on. Don't let them take the easy road and just set it to factory specs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Matt's 95 Stang
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
2
10-05-2015 07:16 AM