Pre Installation Question
Hey guys, I have been lurking on the forums for quite a while and have certainly done my fair share of reading, and yet here I am starting a thread with a question that has probably been beat to death. Anyway, my name is Chris and sorry in advance!
I recently purchased a set of Steeda UCA's, Eibach Prokit, and Tokico D-Specs. I am currently rollin' on 20" Foose wheels and I am wondering if I should hold off with installing my parts, so I can buy and install an adjustable panhard bar at the same time. Or, will I be o.k. running my springs, shocks, struts, and uca's for a while without a panhard? Is the Prokit drop dramatic enough to cause fender rubbing in the rear without the axle being relocated? Also, will I need camber bolts up front?
Sorry to ask so many questions that in all likely hood have already been beat to death.
-Chris
I recently purchased a set of Steeda UCA's, Eibach Prokit, and Tokico D-Specs. I am currently rollin' on 20" Foose wheels and I am wondering if I should hold off with installing my parts, so I can buy and install an adjustable panhard bar at the same time. Or, will I be o.k. running my springs, shocks, struts, and uca's for a while without a panhard? Is the Prokit drop dramatic enough to cause fender rubbing in the rear without the axle being relocated? Also, will I need camber bolts up front?
Sorry to ask so many questions that in all likely hood have already been beat to death.
-Chris
What is the full tire size? I ran for months on the Eibach Pros and 255/45/18 tires without an adjustable PHB - no issues. Every car is a little different but it mostly depends on the width of the rear tires - real wide tires and the left rear *may* stick out a bit. Camber bolts are cheap insurance. You should have the car aligned after lowering it, your camber and toe will change, whether they are out of spec only the alignment rack can tell you. Take the camber bolts with you just in case they are needed. But, you can run for a while without them, the car will actually handle better with the increase negative camber.
What is the full tire size? I ran for months on the Eibach Pros and 255/45/18 tires without an adjustable PHB - no issues. Every car is a little different but it mostly depends on the width of the rear tires - real wide tires and the left rear *may* stick out a bit. Camber bolts are cheap insurance. You should have the car aligned after lowering it, your camber and toe will change, whether they are out of spec only the alignment rack can tell you. Take the camber bolts with you just in case they are needed. But, you can run for a while without them, the car will actually handle better with the increase negative camber.
Is there anyone in Orange Co. Ca that may be able to help me out with this at some point in time? It would be a huge help and I already have the tools to do the install, I could just use a brain to pick on how I should go about dialing in the pinion angle and help with pairing the shock damping to match the spring rates of the Prokit.
-Chris
The Tokico's are so easy to adjust you can easily play with them to set them where it feels good to you depending on how you are using the car. Total time to change all 4 is about 5 minutes.
I'm running the Steeda Competition springs and on the road set them to 4 front and back and at the track to 2 F and 2.5 R.
Which Steeda UCA PN did you get?
I'm running the Steeda Competition springs and on the road set them to 4 front and back and at the track to 2 F and 2.5 R.
Which Steeda UCA PN did you get?
Thanks for the quick reply! I am running 275's in the rear and 255's in the front right now. When I get it aligned, should I have then set it up with -2 degrees? Also, how much would it cost for a shop to dial my pinion angle in, or would I be better off to do it myself?
-Chris
-Chris
The Eibach Pro will not even give you -2 camber, more like -1.2 range. -2 is a lot of camber and is more for autocross and track than street driving. Over time it will cause the inside of the tires to wear. If you are only doing street driving you want to be more in the -1 range.
You don't need to worry about pinion angle with the drop of the Eibach Pro, it wont change it enough. But if you do want to check it, it requires an angle finder. The process is pretty simple and is explained in a number of articles that can be found on the web. Adjusting the UCA is a PIA, its hard to get up in there, so shops would probably change a good chunk of change to do it.
You don't need to worry about pinion angle with the drop of the Eibach Pro, it wont change it enough. But if you do want to check it, it requires an angle finder. The process is pretty simple and is explained in a number of articles that can be found on the web. Adjusting the UCA is a PIA, its hard to get up in there, so shops would probably change a good chunk of change to do it.
http://www.steeda.com/directions/555...l-arm-s197.pdf
http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm
I just ordered 18x9 Black FR500 Wheel/255/45-18 Nittos from American Muscle and they show a 30mm offset. Will that be wider than stock? I am waiting on my adj Panhard to arrive so i can install the Eibach Pro springs and Toxico's . Are they gonna rub?
Yes it will be wider than stock. No it will not rub, I have 275s with same springs and offset.
Chrisdr I've got a 19 inch rim with a 38 mm offset outback with 19 x 295 x35 and they did not rub unless car was loaded with people using the steeda springs. you should be able to get by with it for a while. Adjusting the uca like the directions say get you pretty close to your pinion angle.
just like Argonaut says every car is different. Good luck on the install !
just like Argonaut says every car is different. Good luck on the install !
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