Check it anyway and suspension geometry is an actual science and not all cars are the same for whatever reason. I trust what Brenspeed says but try the UCA and/or a panhard bar...you strengthen one part and leaving the others stock leaves more stress on the already crappy stock suspension. These cars are heavy and the suspension works for a stock mustang with good driveability not 100% performance in mind cause the general public doesn't always want to pay more for the better suspension hence increasing the price to say that of a camaro or even more a vette.....this is the cheapest V8 car you can buy for a reason and they had to skimp on something....

So for you Rip it might just take yet another suspension part to equal out the equation....

I have the numbers below in my sig and have no wheel hop but have crazy wheel spin even with the heavy 20's and no side wall. My clutch is slipping and I thought it was the belt but it seems that it is not the case.....my point? one mod leads to another mod and leads to another mod....its never ending

I drove in a car that had the full FRPP racing suspension and that is a night and day difference from stock...sure more harsh on the crap road but when the roads are flat and curvy....it was amazing...that cost substantially more then just getting LCA's

Back the the drawing board and trial and error is key when your essentially tuning the suspension by changing out to higher performance parts...hope that helps you to feel better!

 

You say that it does this only some of the time but not always? How does that correspond to the road surface conditions and/or temperature?


Norm

 

It seems to be doing it worse during the cool winter months which is also where you tend to see a lot more in the way of dust and gravel on the roads even when they are cleared of ice and snow. Cooler pavement and the tires ofcourse aren't exactly supple.

As an aside I was thinking about this with a friend this weekend and regardless of my particulars is wheel hop a situation that can come up on almost any car if given the perfect set of circumstances? Can any car if just the right road conditions, throttle, clutch, traction, power, etc. present themselves do this regardless of how modified their suspension is?

 

Your pinion angle is not the issue as you are stock ride height.

Which Steeda LCAs did you get? I suspect you did not get anything more than poly bushed fixed length. That is your problem.

I have poly/rod adjustable LCAs, poly/rod adjustable PHB and brace. I am at stock ride height and have a stock UCA. My wheel hop is only cured 95% and when it does hop, it is minimal and for a shorter time.

There are many components that affect wheel hop. If you think it's only the LCAs, you haven't spent enough time in the handling section.

Ride height,springs, shocks, LCA, UCA, angle between the LCA and axle, rim diameter, and tires all affect wheel hop. You have a long ways to go.

 

I have the ones that are part of the "stop the hop" package Steeda makes. The rest of the rear suspension is completely stock. No aftermarket anything else.

http://www.brenspeed.com/555-4422.html

The problem? I've been told that this is supposed to be the cure for the problem.

 

I meant that since you have a fixed length poly bushing LCA you won't 100% eliminate the issue. For one, that piece is not the best LCA, second the other components that affect wheel hop haven't been addressed. Changing 1 thing won't fix the problem completely.

 

OK I need to vent a little bit about this. Ginormous message alert. Incoming.

UrS4 - you may be right about that. However what am I supposed to think here? I am given conflicting information. A friend of mine who makes more power than my car didn't have a problem until he put drag radials on there. LCAs alone cured that issue entirely and he has WAY more power than I do. Brenspeed told me LCA by itself fix this problem in the vast majority of cases. The last thing I expected was to have this problem with them on my car.

My concerns are as follows.

a) Could I have a quirky screwed up car that has a predisposition towards this condition.
b) Assuming I put different control arms on there or replace another component, and it helps, then what happens as I add more power? I already have one of the "major" upgrades on there as it is for addressing this problem. And the car freaks at 300hp. Great.
c) I could literally throw hundreds if not thousands into trying to fix this by redoing the entire rear suspension. But if the car has a predisposition then it may never be fixed entirely or it may limit me down the road when I try to add more power.
d) There is no clarity here on what I need to do. The answer is replace one component after another until it goes away. That sounds like a money pit. It's one thing to replace something knowing it should help but another thing to just throw money at it.

Just very worried here that I have a lemon on my hands and that I need to ditch it before it sucks all kinds of money in a fruitless attempt at addressing this. Seriously the LCA should have taken care of this and very few seem to dispute that. Are they wrong? What am I supposed to think here? Brenspeed usually knows what they are talking about and I trust my friend who knows a ton about these cars.

Incidentally brenspeed did have this to say to me.
Should I have bought an AWD car? LOL

 

I put on a BMR adj. panhard and J&M Street LCA's with Steeda Springs.

No wheel hop. If I had to guess, the BMR panhard did the most to stop it.

See: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=45733414

 

+1 That's the first thing i'd check.

 

You have to have traction in order to have wheel hop. Your friend probably couldn't gain traction.