Brenspeed more or less told me to not worry about this unless it keeps up with it during the summer. I don't know. Seems odd to me it would be more apt to do it now on these cold roads with all the dirt and crud on there. You would expect it to spin easier now.

Anyhow thanks for the info and I'll see what happens when we take a look at it Saturday or Sunday. Even if the arms look fine I am tempted to go ahead and get something else. Maybe I'll try some UMI or BMR next. If no improvement there then do you suggest doing the third link next Norm? Seems to be what most are suggesting.

 

I think being a second owner you may have no idea how the previous guy drove it. It's possibly he really wore out the bushings, once you put the LCA, it just exasperated a pre-existing condition.

Sounds good right

Keep in mind any part you add to firm up the suspension at one point, puts extra stress on something else. Also for suspension setups there are probably pretty big margins of tolerance differences either way from car to car during the manufacturing/assembly process. This could also contribute to why "your friend's more powerful car" acts differently.

You should have someone qualified like a shop go over your suspension setup. It's possible one bushing is bad and causing all your problems. It's easy to throw parts at a situation, but not if you are worried about cost. The cost of a good inspection/recommendation would probably be a better option. Than you can put your money toward a part that should HELP resolve the issue most times, but again, wheel hop as horse power increases will always be a problem.

 

The only time that I've had wheel hop was when the road was wet, maybe 1/4" or so deep with water. Perhaps in low-grip situations it's more of a geometry issue (the stock anti-squat % is not very high to begin with and drops still lower over the first inch of squat).


Norm

 

We installed the Steeda LCA late last summer and they've been on the car for only about 2000 miles or so. While a cracked bushing could be an issue, and bears investigation at some point in the troubleshooting process, the chances are not real good. These arms were not put on by the previous owner.

As far as an inspection goes I trust my friend (Kolb02) and so I will see what he has to say about this. Replacing the LCA with a different model/brand and possibly getting an upper installed could be in the cards.

That said I have plans for the car and I want to increase power at some point to just over 400whp. If it's hopping right now as it is, and assuming the LCA and install thereof is fine, then that worries me. I know I could always pull the blower off and sell the car if it turned out to be unfixable in this regard - but that is a big hassle.

 

Maybe I missed it. Did you ever say if the car was lowered?

I put BMR Tubular LCAs on my car (which has been lowered with Roush springs) and that pretty much got rid of wheel hop, although now I have put lower profile Pirelli tires on the car and the hop came back a little bit, although not nearly as bad as without the LCAs.

 

Stock suspension other than the LCA. NOT lowered. The control arms I have are the tubular ones with poly bushings.

 

No, the car is not lowered.

It is very possible to have a poly bushing crack after only 2,000 miles. Some poly bushings just plain suck! I have no idea what kind of bushings steeda uses, but the ones in my bmr panhard bar sucked! If the bushings are wore, then steeda might replace them.

Riptide, me thinks you are overreacting. There is no predisposition for wheel hop in your car over another s197. Stop over analyzing it.

I can only speak for my setup, but I don't get wheel hop any more, only spin with drag radials or street tires. Even nailing it on my dirt road it doesn't hop. I really need to get a video of a dirt load launch. My setup = frpp springs, stock shocks/struts, CHE adj upper(probably replacing with J&M extreme), J&M extreme joint lowers, elderbrock adj. panhard bar(used to be bmr).

 

Where can you get the J&M lowers and upper? What do you think of UMI stuff?

If the bushings are cracked after 2000 miles - what a piece of JUNK. Anyhow I hope you are right about me overreacting. I'm only going off what I've read. Which is to say any wheel hop is a bad thing and real hard on the car. And in my situation it's rather odd that it's coming up in the first place.

Norm mentioned his car wheel hops when it gets on wet pavement? Shouldn't it just spin easier?

 

Considering that Steeda's "Stop The Hop" package consists of both LCAs and a UCA and that you only half the LCAs it would seem to suggest that replacing the UCA would be a logical next step and a better alternative than swapping to different LCAs. The UCA list price is only $129.95.

http://www.steeda.com/products/stop_the_hop_s197.php

Note that they sell two UCAs, one for cars that are not lowered and one for cars that are lowered or not http://www.steeda.com/products/tubul...r_3rd_link.php

My car has not exihibited any signs of wheel hop with 445 flywheel HP but it has been extensively modified per my sig. It uses the 555-4109 Steeda UCA on the longer setting http://www.steeda.com/products/adjus...ontrol_arm.php

 

Any vehicle will spin easier and hop less on wet pavement. Even my lowered ford ranger, which I removed the center leaf spring on, would spin on wet pavement. On dry pavement it would hop all over the place, even on an easy take off.

If you are doing a burnout on wet pavement, then it may start to hop once you burn some of the water off. I can't really say because I don't know what he's doing.

Minor wheel hop isn't going to break your rear end.