Eibach Pro kit, after the install
05-09-2009, 09:46 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 199
I would tend to disagree. A proper lowering spring installation alone
should/would cause any more Noise or Vibration but maybe some
more Harshness. What the OP is hearing is more like rubber bushing bind.
Who installed the springs?
Did you/they tighten up the suspension
hardware at ride height like the Ford
Workshop Manual states to do?
If not, your OEM rubber bushings
are in severe bind and wont last very long.
That could be all the noises you are hearing.
All the suspension hardware that was
removed for the spring install needs to
have been tightened up with the suspension
loaded at ride height.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=65&viewfile=Spring - Coil.pdf
should/would cause any more Noise or Vibration but maybe some
more Harshness. What the OP is hearing is more like rubber bushing bind.
Who installed the springs?
Did you/they tighten up the suspension
hardware at ride height like the Ford
Workshop Manual states to do?
If not, your OEM rubber bushings
are in severe bind and wont last very long.
That could be all the noises you are hearing.
All the suspension hardware that was
removed for the spring install needs to
have been tightened up with the suspension
loaded at ride height.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=65&viewfile=Spring - Coil.pdf
I cant open these for some reason..can anyone help?
All the suspension hardware that was
removed for the spring install needs to
have been tightened up with the suspension
loaded at ride height. <-- can someone elaborate on this?
05-10-2009, 09:14 AM
#12
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Unless you've replaced an OE rubber bushing with a poly bushing or rod end, the associated control arm is not perfectly free to rotate about that pivot. OE rubber bushings are bonded to the inner sleeve (which is clamped tight in the bracket) and also to the outer shell (which is press-fit in the control arm or rear upper axle ear).
You want the bushings to be unloaded with the car at its natural ride height, which you've changed just by installing lowering springs, if not aggravated by loosening/retightening suspension pivot bolts with the car supported by the frame and the wheels drooping free.
You accomplish "unloading" of the bushings by loosening the pivot bolts, allowing the car to settle to its new ride height, and then retightening the bolts. Keep in mind that the bolts/nuts are supposedly "one-time use", although there are a number of discussions that mention ways of getting at least a second use out of them.
Norm
You want the bushings to be unloaded with the car at its natural ride height, which you've changed just by installing lowering springs, if not aggravated by loosening/retightening suspension pivot bolts with the car supported by the frame and the wheels drooping free.
You accomplish "unloading" of the bushings by loosening the pivot bolts, allowing the car to settle to its new ride height, and then retightening the bolts. Keep in mind that the bolts/nuts are supposedly "one-time use", although there are a number of discussions that mention ways of getting at least a second use out of them.
Norm
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