Argonaut

As mentioned, to install camber bolts the strut does not need to be removed. But it does have to be unbolted from the spindle. I..e. the camber bolts replace the stock strut to spindle bolts. Camber bolts are eccentric (they are not round). So when you turn them it changes the position of the bottom of the strut to the spindle and hence changes your camber. As such, they can and sometimes do slip (the come loose and the camber goes out of whack on its own). For most driving conditions they should work fine. However, I venture to say you will not find any aggressive, high performance or racing drivers using them because of this.

A non-Mustang note: my C5 Corvette has a totally different front suspension using double wishbones. On the bottom, where the A-arm mounts to the engine cradle are two eccentric bolts (very similar to the camber bolts), one front, one rear. You loosen and turn these bolts to adjust camber and to some degree castor. I track the car a lot. These bolts are notorious for coming loose. You have to constantly check the torque on them or your camber will suddenly go out. In one track day I totally scrubbed and ruined the inside of one of my front tires because I didn't catch this. Replacing these with non-eccentrics and plates is in my near term mod list.

notsofast

Argonaut,
Thanks again for your insight. I had the car at the tire/alignment shop today. In the name of expediency, and getting the car completed today, I opted for the camber bolts which they were able to source. I understand your comments about the disadvantages of camber bolts, and if/when I upgrade to adjustable shocks, then I will also go with a better method of camber adjustment.
Also, the main problem with the inside tire wear was excessive toe-out, not so much the camber, which was only neg 1.5 degrees vs. factory setting of neg 0.75 degrees (per technician). Hopefully this will at least solve the premature tire wear problem.
Thanks again to everyone on this thread.