Choice
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Hi wilkinda,
The FRPP M-5300-K springs are just relabled Eibach Pro-Kit springs. This spring is either too low or not stiff enough early enough in it's travel depending on how you look at it. No damper change can fix this problem.
In any case The FRPP/Eibach sport springs are not an ideal spring design, they are just too low and have you riding on and overworking the bumpstops on the rear axle and struts too much of the time. These springs are a progressive design that is not designed quite right. The higher spring rate needs to come in sooner in the spring's travel to avoid so much excessive bottoming out on the stops.
If you value your car's ride there is nothing you can really do to fully resolve your excessively lowered spring problem without changing the FRPP/Eibach springs out for a taller, stiffer linear rate spring which will keep your car off the bumpstops most of the time. Steeda sport or Competition springs are a good choice in conjuction with D-Specs or Koni Sport dampers.
HTH!
The FRPP M-5300-K springs are just relabled Eibach Pro-Kit springs. This spring is either too low or not stiff enough early enough in it's travel depending on how you look at it. No damper change can fix this problem.
In any case The FRPP/Eibach sport springs are not an ideal spring design, they are just too low and have you riding on and overworking the bumpstops on the rear axle and struts too much of the time. These springs are a progressive design that is not designed quite right. The higher spring rate needs to come in sooner in the spring's travel to avoid so much excessive bottoming out on the stops.
If you value your car's ride there is nothing you can really do to fully resolve your excessively lowered spring problem without changing the FRPP/Eibach springs out for a taller, stiffer linear rate spring which will keep your car off the bumpstops most of the time. Steeda sport or Competition springs are a good choice in conjuction with D-Specs or Koni Sport dampers.
HTH!
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Sam,
The way you handle warranty replacement is up to you but if you sold the dampers you should be the user's advocate like we used to be. If you think your customer has a bad damper when you get off the phone with them take a credit card and cross ship them a replacement. When the so called bad damper comes in verify it and credit the charges back to the buyer or call them and tell them the shock is good and offer to take the shock you cross shipped back for a 20% restocking fee. These restocked dampers became our warranty replacements. Of course this was a pretty good sized distributor so we had a lot of dampers floating around put there and there was quite a bit of just out in the bin for warranty destruction. But as you know there is enough money in dampers to do this if you have good management of your inventory.
HTH!
The way you handle warranty replacement is up to you but if you sold the dampers you should be the user's advocate like we used to be. If you think your customer has a bad damper when you get off the phone with them take a credit card and cross ship them a replacement. When the so called bad damper comes in verify it and credit the charges back to the buyer or call them and tell them the shock is good and offer to take the shock you cross shipped back for a 20% restocking fee. These restocked dampers became our warranty replacements. Of course this was a pretty good sized distributor so we had a lot of dampers floating around put there and there was quite a bit of just out in the bin for warranty destruction. But as you know there is enough money in dampers to do this if you have good management of your inventory.
HTH!
Yep, I guilty of not only preferring the better working damper... but also the company that stands behind their product better too. What is wrong with me????
And I should point out here, as I always seem to I sell Tokico. In fact I also am a Steeda Distributor as well (and they are all about Tokico). So if you want them, not a problem. It is my opinon there are better options other's mileage or opinions may vary. But I'll point out that it's implied I somehow prefer Koni based on what I make. I make no more money on the sale of a set of Koni's than I to D-specs, not a dime. I have the same discount on both. I run Koni's on my car.... I wouldn't if I thought the D-specs were better--I had a set of those too and don't regret for moment having swapped.
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