So far I have been stock wheel studs and lug nuts on my car and after 16 or so track days over two seasons the only problem I had was one on the left front was hard to get off when they put the snows on last October.

Up to now I been running KDW2s for both street and track. The wheels are Steeda Ulta Lites 18 x 9.5 x 45 mm offset.

For next season I'm probably going to a dedicated set of track tires and rims, 275/40/18 Nitto NT01s on the same Steeda rims.

My question is whether or not, as the studs and lug nuts will be more highly stressed with the NT01s and removed more frequently to swap the track only tires on and off whether the stock ones should be changed and if so to what?

All other related comments and suggestions will be appreciated.

 

The suspension will become more highly stressed, but I don't think that the studs/nuts will be. I know it sounds inconsistent, but when you torque the lug nuts down, you are preloading the studs which stretches them slightly. As long as the loads developed by the tires do not cause any minute separation between the wheel centers and the rotor hats to stretch the studs more, there will be no added stress in them.

I'd plan on checking lug nut torque between sessions (after things have had a chance to cool a bit) if you aren't doing so already. Alloy wheels in only street duty are suggested to be retorqued after a hundred miles or so.

Norm

 

If not over torqued, they shouldn't be hard to undo.

They make a 1/2' size set up with coarse threads for our cars but it's way too much trouble and over killed IMO, unless you do hardcore racing and endurance...

 

Stock Ford studs are not particularly strong. We autocrosser break them a lot, granted we change tires more often than most. We use a set of ARP studs and have for 3 years. They are not cheap, but will not break. Nothing is worse than breaking a stud and screwing your day up. I've never seen one break in use, always when changing tires. They tend to gall and if you look close when you change your tires you will find bits of metal......

The ARP studs are not cheap, but well worth it. And yes, the stickier tires will put more stress on the studs. Add the high temps from brakes which softens the stock studs and it falls under the "better safe than sorry category". ARP Studs are one of the things I carry, but have not managed to get on the website---yet. I also have open-end Gorilla lugs to go with them. I can do a package of ARP studs and lugs for $299.99.

I should notes that the ARP studs are direct fit, no enlarging holes, etc like some companies who have "studs" require, because they are really just generic studs meant for other models. These ARP's are specific for S197's. And they are longer, which means no hassle if you use spacers or thick flange wheels.

 

Most road racing sactioning bodies suggest replacing wheel studs every 2-3 seasons because of the higher stress put on them, from all of the reasons mentioned in previous posts. I am planning on replacing my wheel studs this off season.

Sam, I am glad to see you are carrying the ARP studs. I will add them to the list of parts I will call and order from you once I get to that point.

 

I have ARP studs in my garage just waiting to be installed. We change wheels so often...I agree with SS, better safe than sorry.

 

I'm working on getting the ARP Studs and a kit with both the ARP studs and lug nuts on the website tonight.

 

ARP Stud/lug combination is up: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=144&ModelID=5

 

I'll be purchasing some ARP wheel studs. I've had my wheels off the car at least 50 times swapping, adjusting, and reinstalling suspension components. And a few tire swaps by monkeys with airtools can't help...