Front Swaybar Endlinks
05-19-2010, 12:47 PM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 199
Any time you make a car stiffer, it can tend to tramline and follow dips and ruts more than it did. The body will more closely follow the road surface, and since it seems random that's my guess. I do not think it's actually random, but think it's happening when the road is less than level.
the bounce in the front end is because the front struts are IMHO set too soft for the springs you have. Many figure the softer the shocks the better the ride, but forget that too little damping is just as bad and can actually be worse than too much.
Can't tell you what the clunk is. Could be a bad ball joint, could be a bad ball joint end on a stock endlink. They aren't the most durable things, and the stiffer front bar only makes like harder on them.
the bounce in the front end is because the front struts are IMHO set too soft for the springs you have. Many figure the softer the shocks the better the ride, but forget that too little damping is just as bad and can actually be worse than too much.
Can't tell you what the clunk is. Could be a bad ball joint, could be a bad ball joint end on a stock endlink. They aren't the most durable things, and the stiffer front bar only makes like harder on them.
Last edited by Shotokan1509; 05-19-2010 at 12:50 PM.
05-19-2010, 01:04 PM
#22
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Do you recognize bumpsteer kit requirements on our cars? I have tramlining, which actually decreased when I went to a wider front tire (275 all around vs old 255/295 combo). There are some spots I know will yank on the steering wheel with rough road surface that is not a big deal in other vehicles (but could be just stiffer car in general as you mentioned above).
Bumpsteer is just that, steering that happens over bigger bumps or dips due to the angle of the tie rod ends. Frankly if you look under a lowered car, the tie-rods aren't exactly hugely crooked. All cars, ALL cars have some bumpsteer, it's inherent when the rack is attached to the body, and the wheels move independently.
The lower you run the car, the more and more a bumpsteer kit would be something to look at. I can't legally run them in the classes I race--but again I don't really have any issues to speak of with it even on our less then stellar western PA roads).
05-19-2010, 01:41 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 199
Do I recognize it? Ahhh, I don't really have any bumpsteer issues with my cars, but I do sell bumpsteer kits for those that want them.
Bumpsteer is just that, steering that happens over bigger bumps or dips due to the angle of the tie rod ends. Frankly if you look under a lowered car, the tie-rods aren't exactly hugely crooked. All cars, ALL cars have some bumpsteer, it's inherent when the rack is attached to the body, and the wheels move independently.
The lower you run the car, the more and more a bumpsteer kit would be something to look at. I can't legally run them in the classes I race--but again I don't really have any issues to speak of with it even on our less then stellar western PA roads).
Bumpsteer is just that, steering that happens over bigger bumps or dips due to the angle of the tie rod ends. Frankly if you look under a lowered car, the tie-rods aren't exactly hugely crooked. All cars, ALL cars have some bumpsteer, it's inherent when the rack is attached to the body, and the wheels move independently.
The lower you run the car, the more and more a bumpsteer kit would be something to look at. I can't legally run them in the classes I race--but again I don't really have any issues to speak of with it even on our less then stellar western PA roads).
05-20-2010, 11:14 AM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
If you find yourself sawing back and forth at the steering wheel going through a long turn that has a few uneven heaves in it, and doing so in a rhythm, I'd expect a bumpsteer kit to be able to fix that. The outside front wheel is further up into its bump travel, which usually means the bumpsteer rate is larger. And it is not counteracted as well by what the inside front tire is doing (because it's carrying much less load and cambered the wrong way). Heaves on a straight ahead road tend to affect the two front wheels such that their little unwanted steerings cancel each other out.
I'd go find a 'heave-y" curve to drive on, to better diagnose this (and/or your tolerance for it). The longer the curve is, the better.
Norm
I'd go find a 'heave-y" curve to drive on, to better diagnose this (and/or your tolerance for it). The longer the curve is, the better.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-20-2010 at 11:17 AM.
01-03-2018, 05:28 PM
#25
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 10
Hey, Guys....
been following this. Got a 2006 GT and have this loud metallic "click" going over bumps or up and into driveways. I have replaced the front struts with Motorcraft, the upper strut mounts with Motorcraft, lower ball joints with Moog and visually checked everything I could, all to no avail.
A little stumped at this point....
been following this. Got a 2006 GT and have this loud metallic "click" going over bumps or up and into driveways. I have replaced the front struts with Motorcraft, the upper strut mounts with Motorcraft, lower ball joints with Moog and visually checked everything I could, all to no avail.
A little stumped at this point....
01-03-2018, 05:31 PM
#26
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 10
I had similar experience to what you describe some time ago and it was an inner tie rod (have to admit I popped a curb pretty good and caused it myself). Pull your wheel and yank in/out on the tie rod to check for play. There should be zero. Mine was actually a popping or clicking noise over sharp bumps. I purchased another Motorcraft inner tie rod from RockAuto (complete with new boot and clamps which was nice) and replaced it.
You could also have someone look under the front suspension and watch the balljoint/tie rods while you push/pull the wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 oclock positions to see where your play is at. You could have a bad balljoint as well.
Doing this along with the other recommendations, you will find the problem. Oh yeah, and CHECK your ALIGNMENT. This can also defintely cause the twitch, wander at speed.
You could also have someone look under the front suspension and watch the balljoint/tie rods while you push/pull the wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 oclock positions to see where your play is at. You could have a bad balljoint as well.
Doing this along with the other recommendations, you will find the problem. Oh yeah, and CHECK your ALIGNMENT. This can also defintely cause the twitch, wander at speed.
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