That said, who makes the best radiator for a tracked S197 ?

 

Just so there's really no confusion, even Dave doesn't think the Accusump is doing all that much for him (he did it in the name of "extra insurance"). Even our oil pan seems pretty well baffled. Slaya once showed this image of what we're working with:



You can check out that "oil viscosity" thread here.

As for the integrated oil exchanger, I think you can find info on it in the shop manual. The coolant tube runs into the block right along side the oil filter. From what it looks like, they are just running really close to one another, and as the coolant flows it's taking up heat from the oil. I'm at work so I don't have access to the manual, but I'm pretty sure it's indicated in the system components. Not sure how effective it all is, but like you said, this is probably best evaluated by the actual temps we're showing.

Best,
-j

 

First attempt at multi-quoting...

Philo, I’ve been lurking in the “other forum” for a number of months. I looked up SoundGuyDave’s install over the weekend before remembering Argonaut’s install here. I wish he posted the pictures but imagine he ran out of time. He seems very knowledgeable and willing to share his knowledge. He also has some excellent hardware on his Mustang.

Brad, Come to think of it, the Accusumps I’ve seen were on GM vehicles. I was watching a YouTube video of a RX7 with an LS1 conversion, trying to learn a bit about Mid-Ohio before I go on the 24th. He has a video where his engine blew up do to oil starvation.

Slaya, Point well taken. I drove a Mustang Challenge car last summer at Miller Motorsports Park and the temps were in the 90’s and there definitely were no overheating issues. It was the last day of my three day course and the first day of the comp licensing for course for the others and we drove the wheels off of those cars. I was thinking about adding the Shelby hood vent like you did for added cooling and to get rid of the bulging hood at high speeds. I noticed in CC that you made some changes to the install. How are the rivets working?

I do recall hearing that the 4.6 pans were well baffled. From the picture, I’d say so. The other part of the puzzle is the drainage from the heads. Given the result from the FR500S, they have “sealed engines” so teams can’t mess with them, I’d say they do well in that department too.

I think the first course of action is to get the oil temp, oil pressure and water temperature gauges and see where I’m at. I usually run my oil a tad over the top line on the dip stick for a safety margin and have never noticed the low oil light come on. Having a gauge will let me see if I’m beginning to loose pressure in the turns. I’ve never had the water temp idiot gauge go more than slightly past the middle (what ever that temperature actually is). If I see anything bad after getting gauges, make changes then.

I imagine the engine management system uses inputs from the oil sending unit and water sending unit. Using aftermarket gauges with their own sending units or bypassing the stock wiring would be a bad thing. I’d like to stick with electric gauges rather than capillary tubes due to ease of install. I’d also like to avoid having to drill and tap any additional holes.

I'll do some searches and see what turns up or maybe start another thread if nothing comes up. Any ideas or experiences would be appreciated.

Thanks and Cheers,

 

Rivets are holding up perfectly. It's now the "install-and-forget" mod that I hoped it would be. I'll update once it's been through the wringer over the summer, with temps at the tracks going well into the triple digits from what I hear...