Steeda and Koni installed....
05-09-2010, 07:19 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,486
Steeda and Koni installed....
Finally had time to install the Koni's and the Steeda Sport springs. Also installed the Steeda HD Strut mounts...
Car is solid and the drive is perfect. I like the stance too, still has the Mustang aggressive look with the tail a bit higher.
Jack in position
Removing the torque bar
Securing the wheel assembly
Old strut assembly removed
Koni's installed
HD Strut Mounts, top side
Love the way it sits
Front wheel
Rear wheel
Car is solid and the drive is perfect. I like the stance too, still has the Mustang aggressive look with the tail a bit higher.
Jack in position
Removing the torque bar
Securing the wheel assembly
Old strut assembly removed
Koni's installed
HD Strut Mounts, top side
Love the way it sits
Front wheel
Rear wheel
05-09-2010, 10:05 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,486
Koni Springs STR.T - Street (Orange):
http://www.stranoparts.com/
Steeda Sport Springs:
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...springs_05.php
Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts:
http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy...nts_street.php
Not the best picture, but you get the idea....
http://www.stranoparts.com/
Steeda Sport Springs:
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...springs_05.php
Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts:
http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy...nts_street.php
Not the best picture, but you get the idea....
05-10-2010, 03:05 AM
#4
Join Date: May 2010
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 9
Lookin' good! I'll be putting a very similar setup on my Mustang, only difference is Koni Yellows and J&M camber plates.
Quick question: How do you adjust the camber once the plates are installed? Do you jack up the car and loosen the 4 bolts at the top of the strut, then just slide the top of the strut in and out until you reach the desired angle?
Quick question: How do you adjust the camber once the plates are installed? Do you jack up the car and loosen the 4 bolts at the top of the strut, then just slide the top of the strut in and out until you reach the desired angle?
05-10-2010, 10:19 AM
#6
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,486
The springs are stiffer than OEM, but not so bad that your fillings fall out of your mouth. I did take it around a 90 degree corner at about 90mph, both front and rear tires got loose, but the power slide was very well balanced and controllable 
PS. We have thank Sam Strano, he's the one who recommended this setup!
No need for the adjustable panhard bar...only required when you drop 2" or more I believe. Car is still centered. I didn't want it so low that speed bumps and parking lost become an issue.
Yep, sounds about right, must still have the alignment done.
PS. We have thank Sam Strano, he's the one who recommended this setup!
Lookin' good! I'll be putting a very similar setup on my Mustang, only difference is Koni Yellows and J&M camber plates.
Quick question: How do you adjust the camber once the plates are installed? Do you jack up the car and loosen the 4 bolts at the top of the strut, then just slide the top of the strut in and out until you reach the desired angle?
Quick question: How do you adjust the camber once the plates are installed? Do you jack up the car and loosen the 4 bolts at the top of the strut, then just slide the top of the strut in and out until you reach the desired angle?
Last edited by Roy_R; 05-10-2010 at 10:22 AM.
05-10-2010, 11:27 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Wish I could see the pics now, but work internet filters means that it'll have to wait until later. I have an upcoming task involving some Koni Sports that I only want to do once.
You can probably DIY the alignment, too.
Harbor Freight now sells a 16" digital angle finder that's good to 0.1° (it's about $25, IIRC from seeing it yesterday). Given a flat place to set up on, I think that anybody who can swap the struts and springs as a DIY project could put the camber where they wanted it (within the range that the strut mounts permit).
Keep in mind that toe will almost certainly end up getting changed a bit, partly from swapping in the new struts and partly from camber most likely ending up not quite where it was before the swap. Patience and parallel strings lets you fix this.
Norm
You can probably DIY the alignment, too.
Harbor Freight now sells a 16" digital angle finder that's good to 0.1° (it's about $25, IIRC from seeing it yesterday). Given a flat place to set up on, I think that anybody who can swap the struts and springs as a DIY project could put the camber where they wanted it (within the range that the strut mounts permit).
Keep in mind that toe will almost certainly end up getting changed a bit, partly from swapping in the new struts and partly from camber most likely ending up not quite where it was before the swap. Patience and parallel strings lets you fix this.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-10-2010 at 12:08 PM.
05-10-2010, 04:47 PM
#8
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
I'm glad you like it... but let me fix a few things for you... namely the links to the Steeda springs and HD mounts.
Koni Springs STR.T - Street (Orange):
http://www.stranoparts.com/
Steeda Sport Springs:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=75&ModelID=5
Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=75&ModelID=5
http://www.stranoparts.com/
Steeda Sport Springs:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=75&ModelID=5
Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=75&ModelID=5
05-10-2010, 11:47 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,486
Nice Sam
As far as tools are concerned....had to use a 19mm socket on the strut compressing clamps.
Sockets 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 18mm.
Socket Wrench
Torque Wrench (up 150lbs)
Wrench - 9mm, 18mm (9mm used to hold the top of the strut shaft)
Floor Jack
Jack Stands (x2)
PS. Not sure how to torque the bolt on the top of the strut. I used a shifting wrench on it, think it may be 20mm or 21mm.
As far as tools are concerned....had to use a 19mm socket on the strut compressing clamps.
Sockets 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 18mm.
Socket Wrench
Torque Wrench (up 150lbs)
Wrench - 9mm, 18mm (9mm used to hold the top of the strut shaft)
Floor Jack
Jack Stands (x2)
PS. Not sure how to torque the bolt on the top of the strut. I used a shifting wrench on it, think it may be 20mm or 21mm.
05-11-2010, 12:08 AM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
The nut on the top of the strut is a 22mm. To torque it, I used a 22mm wrench to hold the nut, and put my torque wrench on the strut rod itself and torqued that to the appropriate torque setting. I don't know if that's sound... but it seemed right in my head. I'm sure an engineer will be able to correct me if I'm wrong. If I could find a 22mm Crowsfoot, I'd do it the right way.