Looking For Coilover Options
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
Hi Slaya,
I have no idea and I have not heard Steeda mention what they are valved for. I'm on 350lb/in Hypercoil springs right now and the dampers are working great on the street and cranked up for the canyons I still have 3/4 to 1/2 of a turn left. This might seem like the dampers are getting close to their limits but at the end of the adjustment range it takes less and less to get the dampers to get VERY firm. Most adjustable dampers valving seem to work like this and get very non-linear at the ends of their adjustment range.
My Steeda coilovers have about 40K on them and are still bone dry and show no signs of wear on the strut shaft chrome plating so far. So I might imagine that your 400lb/in rate might be about right though I have no way to know for sure. If you need more damping the Koni race dampers Ground Control sells for the S197 chassis should be good up to about 750lb/in as shipped. You can also get them in double adjustable form which cranks their range of use up tremendously.
HTH!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 452
From: Tri Cities, TN
STILLEN sells KW, Pfadt Racing, PENSKE, Griggs, TEIN, Bilstein, Eibach, H&R, and Moton. So it's NOT just because I sell them. I have raced on these systems on the S197 chassis with incredible results and have them on my own street car as well as my race car.
Griggs Koni front coil over system is also great and their rear Watts system is literally the best money can buy. That being said, this wasn't about re-engineering a customers car. This was about simple bolt on coil overs. And just because its Japanese doesn't mean its junk. Where did that infomration come from??? There are plenty of Japanese companies that make amazing parts for domestic performance vehicles and to base its performance on its country of origin is simple bigotry.
The advice I gave here is no different from the advice I would give at the track. For a coil over system, both TEIN and KW make great products. In a perfect world where money was no option, I would mahcine a strut body and run the PENSKE triple adjustables with specific spring rates for each street I drive on. But $2000 per corner doesn't make much sense does it.
Griggs Koni front coil over system is also great and their rear Watts system is literally the best money can buy. That being said, this wasn't about re-engineering a customers car. This was about simple bolt on coil overs. And just because its Japanese doesn't mean its junk. Where did that infomration come from??? There are plenty of Japanese companies that make amazing parts for domestic performance vehicles and to base its performance on its country of origin is simple bigotry.
The advice I gave here is no different from the advice I would give at the track. For a coil over system, both TEIN and KW make great products. In a perfect world where money was no option, I would mahcine a strut body and run the PENSKE triple adjustables with specific spring rates for each street I drive on. But $2000 per corner doesn't make much sense does it.
Bigotry? LOL...you must be the biggot here. Nothing anyone said before was anything near biggotry. It was an accurate observation, and it was backed up with some evidence. No one said that becuase it was Japanese it was junk. Those are your words.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
I believe the Griggs entry level Koni strut is a Ground Control assembly.
Bigotry? LOL...you must be the biggot here. Nothing anyone said before was anything near biggotry. It was an accurate observation, and it was backed up with some evidence. No one said that becuase it was Japanese it was junk. Those are your words.
Bigotry? LOL...you must be the biggot here. Nothing anyone said before was anything near biggotry. It was an accurate observation, and it was backed up with some evidence. No one said that becuase it was Japanese it was junk. Those are your words.
Steelcomp,
Yes the Griggs coilovers are GC sourced struts.
LOL! I don't think I'm a bigot as far as I can tell. But I can tell you that I'm 100% SoCal American culturally and 100% Asian genetically. Of course I shoot only with Japanese DSLRs because they are so much more reliable and affordable than German DSLRs cameras are. German glass is the best in the world but there are no 300f/2.8 and 400f/2.8 German lenses out there made for modern high-end German digital cameras. It may have something to do with the fact that there are no high-end German SLRs being made any more. But the Germans clearly make the BEST sniper scopes in the world ask anybody!
I may have labeled some Japanese suspension products "junk" in some old posts somewhere on the internet and Tein and Tokico suspension products would probably have been included. But as you said it was not without some actual instrumented measurement and I'll add careful objective testing. There was also a period of several years where a client of mine had to deal with scary high levels of end user warranty returns of Japanese suspension products that for some reason did not occur with similar German and Dutch suspension products. I suppose all of those returns had something to do with why those folks no longer import or distribute the Japanese dampers and springs anymore.
HTH!
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
<<SNIPPED>> And just because its Japanese doesn't mean its junk. Where did that infomration come from??? There are plenty of Japanese companies that make amazing parts for domestic performance vehicles and to base its performance on its country of origin is simple bigotry.
LOL! I'm an equal opportunity bigot!
https://mustangforums.com/forum/7046878-post2.html
Cheers!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 338
From: San Dago
For the money that V3's cost you could buy a coilover setup that works much better from GC.
You got what you paid for, low budget lowering and nothing else. If you think the BC's handle well you don't need anything better because you don't drive fast enough for it to matter.
Like I said above, you don't drive fast enough to know the difference or need a decent damper.
You got what you paid for, low budget lowering and nothing else. If you think the BC's handle well you don't need anything better because you don't drive fast enough for it to matter.
Like I said above, you don't drive fast enough to know the difference or need a decent damper.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 187
From:
Hi Slaya,
I have no idea and I have not heard Steeda mention what they are valved for. I'm on 350lb/in Hypercoil springs right now and the dampers are working great on the street and cranked up for the canyons I still have 3/4 to 1/2 of a turn left. This might seem like the dampers are getting close to their limits but at the end of the adjustment range it takes less and less to get the dampers to get VERY firm. Most adjustable dampers valving seem to work like this and get very non-linear at the ends of their adjustment range.
My Steeda coilovers have about 40K on them and are still bone dry and show no signs of wear on the strut shaft chrome plating so far. So I might imagine that your 400lb/in rate might be about right though I have no way to know for sure. If you need more damping the Koni race dampers Ground Control sells for the S197 chassis should be good up to about 750lb/in as shipped. You can also get them in double adjustable form which cranks their range of use up tremendously.
HTH!
I have no idea and I have not heard Steeda mention what they are valved for. I'm on 350lb/in Hypercoil springs right now and the dampers are working great on the street and cranked up for the canyons I still have 3/4 to 1/2 of a turn left. This might seem like the dampers are getting close to their limits but at the end of the adjustment range it takes less and less to get the dampers to get VERY firm. Most adjustable dampers valving seem to work like this and get very non-linear at the ends of their adjustment range.
My Steeda coilovers have about 40K on them and are still bone dry and show no signs of wear on the strut shaft chrome plating so far. So I might imagine that your 400lb/in rate might be about right though I have no way to know for sure. If you need more damping the Koni race dampers Ground Control sells for the S197 chassis should be good up to about 750lb/in as shipped. You can also get them in double adjustable form which cranks their range of use up tremendously.
HTH!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 452
From: Tri Cities, TN
LOL! I don't think I'm a bigot as far as I can tell. But I can tell you that I'm 100% SoCal American culturally and 100% Asian genetically.
But the Germans clearly make the BEST sniper scopes in the world ask anybody!
Last edited by steelcomp; Jun 10, 2010 at 08:06 AM.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 142
From: CA
Schmidt-Bender...But I digress.
I've been following this thread with great interest since I've been considering what to do about my suspension for a long time.
A GC configuration seems like a great way to go, especially since it allows for a certain degree of cartridge preference.
I've even considered spending long money on Koni 2800's and while it would be fairly awesome, I seriously doubt that I would ever get my money's worth out of these dampers on a track...Or anywhere else! $5-6K would buy a whole lot of suspension and then some.
In the meantime, it's the sum of the suspension equation that I'm after...coilovers being a big part of the equation.
I've been following this thread with great interest since I've been considering what to do about my suspension for a long time.
A GC configuration seems like a great way to go, especially since it allows for a certain degree of cartridge preference.
I've even considered spending long money on Koni 2800's and while it would be fairly awesome, I seriously doubt that I would ever get my money's worth out of these dampers on a track...Or anywhere else! $5-6K would buy a whole lot of suspension and then some.
In the meantime, it's the sum of the suspension equation that I'm after...coilovers being a big part of the equation.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
Schmidt-Bender...But I digress.
I've been following this thread with great interest since I've been considering what to do about my suspension for a long time.
A GC configuration seems like a great way to go, especially since it allows for a certain degree of cartridge preference.
I've even considered spending long money on Koni 2800's and while it would be fairly awesome, I seriously doubt that I would ever get my money's worth out of these dampers on a track...Or anywhere else! $5-6K would buy a whole lot of suspension and then some.
In the meantime, it's the sum of the suspension equation that I'm after...coilovers being a big part of the equation.
I've been following this thread with great interest since I've been considering what to do about my suspension for a long time.
A GC configuration seems like a great way to go, especially since it allows for a certain degree of cartridge preference.
I've even considered spending long money on Koni 2800's and while it would be fairly awesome, I seriously doubt that I would ever get my money's worth out of these dampers on a track...Or anywhere else! $5-6K would buy a whole lot of suspension and then some.
In the meantime, it's the sum of the suspension equation that I'm after...coilovers being a big part of the equation.
Last edited by F1Fan; Jun 10, 2010 at 05:25 PM. Reason: typo, additional info
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
So what long range scopes that you've shot with did you like better? I've shot all of the scopes I've listed and a few others on a Tac-Ops X-Ray, FN A3 G and a heavy barrelled Remy700 dressed as a Tactical weapon. I shot them over long periods of time under many different conditions from 100 to 1,000 yards and formed these opinions from this experience after shooting, playing and thinking about the way these scopes function in the roles they are designed to operate in.
The only real scope selection criteria I had was very clear glass, reliable, sturdy, side focus, enough repeatable elevation and windage in 0.1 milrad clicks for at least 1,000 yards, approx. a 5-25x mag. range with a 20MOA base on a .308 chambered rifle, FFP milrad calibrated reticule useable at both ends of the mag. range (not too course or too fine) so I could use the hash marks for ranging, serviceable. It is harder than it looks to find all of these specs in one place but that was what I figured that I needed to be happy.
Cheers!