allinon72

I have the infamous front end clunk coming from my front passenger wheel. After scanning the huge "clunk" thread, sounds like there isn't a whole lot I can do about it, but just to rule out the end links, I would like to replace those. On my old BMW 3 series, my front end started clunking so I bought aftermarket end links that were just like OEM but had heavier duty bushings. In searching for a similar product for the Mustang, all I can find is adjustable links. I really only need an OEM replacement that's a little heavier duty than the OEM end links.

Any options out there?

jahudso2

Ford actually redesigned them and now sells the modified design ones at the stealerships. I forget the new part number, but the new end links have a different design that has a hex head between the bushing and the threaded part, so that you can use a 18mm wrench on it instead of using a 8mm socket on the open end of the threaded part. I managed to shatter an 8mm craftsman socket on the old design. But anyways, you need new nuts to go with the new endlinks which ford also sells. The new nuts are the biggest improvement, because they have red nylon in them to lock the nuts into place. The new endlinks have a different thread pitch than the stock end links, so you have to buy the new nuts with the nylon. I think the end links were 35 for the pair, and the nuts were like 1-2 bucks a piece, so the total price is under 50 bucks. To make sure you get the right ones, make sure the new nuts have the red nylon inside them and make sure they thread onto the new endlinks. I've had mine on for about 6 months now and have not had the knocking come back.

allinon72

Well I know my nuts are already 18mm and the threaded end is 5/16" so I must already have the upgraded design?

jahudso2

Is there anywhere to put a wrench on the end link besides the 5/16" part? On the new design, the end link itself has a 18mm hex part so that you can use two 18 mm wrenches to tighten it - one on the end link and one on the nut. It is nearly impossible to get the full torque on the 5/16" hex.

allinon72

Mine must be the old design then. I can get pretty good torque on the nut by putting a gear wrench on the 18mm nut and holding the end link in place with the 5/16" threaded end.

allinon72

I've read some threads about replacing the stock bushings with Energy Suspension bushings. Not sure how that would work....anybody have any thoughts on that?

jahudso2

Its not bushing failure that makes the popping noise. Its the fact that the nut keeps backing off the end link. Put some blue locktite on the end link threads and then torque the nuts to 85 ftlb. If the noise is still there, its not the end links. If the noise is gone, don't worry, it will be back in a couple of months. The only solution is to buy new end links - unless you want to try red locktite. Blue didn't do the job for me.

EDIT: I do have the Stillen sway bars which are much stiffer than stock. You may be able to get away with just blue locktite on your nuts.

allinon72

When I put my springs on, I reinstalled the end links with blue Loctite and tightened them down as tight as I could with an 18mm Gear Wrench. They have to be at least 85 ft/lb if not more. Whatever the case may be, I still got clunking from that wheel.

jahudso2

If you have some speedbumps available, then you can try this test. Go over the speedbump straight on so that both front tires hit the speed bump at the same time. Then go over the speed bump crooked where you hit one tire way before the other tire. If there is no noise hitting the speedbump straight on, and a noise when you hit it crooked, it is the swaybar endlink.

allinon72

I know it's coming from the passenger side. I can tell when I hit a bump or manhole cover with just the drivers side, the drivers side tire is much quieter than the passenger side.