Camber Kit
I'm planning to lower my car 1"
Thinking about getting a camber kit to correct the negative camber caused by lowering the car.
If I install the camber kit, will I have to remove my strut brace? I've never installed a camber kit but it looks like they step on each others toes...
Thinking about getting a camber kit to correct the negative camber caused by lowering the car.
If I install the camber kit, will I have to remove my strut brace? I've never installed a camber kit but it looks like they step on each others toes...
If by "camber kit" you mean camber bolts then how are you going to use the car.
If you are not going to drive the car hard,i.e. cornering at high G forces, then using camber bolts may not be a problem. If you are then you might want to reconsider.
The camber bolts replace the front hub to spindle bolts and on newer Mustangs the stock bolts are torqued to 166 ft lbs. If your camber bolts do not specify torque settings in this range then there is a chance that under hard cornering they will slip.
The increase in negative camber caused by lowering the car is actually good for handling but if too severe then can wear the inside edges of the tires.
The preferred way to get the camber back to spec is with the use of an adjustable upper strut mount such as the Steeda HD mount.
If you are not going to drive the car hard,i.e. cornering at high G forces, then using camber bolts may not be a problem. If you are then you might want to reconsider.
The camber bolts replace the front hub to spindle bolts and on newer Mustangs the stock bolts are torqued to 166 ft lbs. If your camber bolts do not specify torque settings in this range then there is a chance that under hard cornering they will slip.
The increase in negative camber caused by lowering the car is actually good for handling but if too severe then can wear the inside edges of the tires.
The preferred way to get the camber back to spec is with the use of an adjustable upper strut mount such as the Steeda HD mount.
You can expect camber to go about half a degree more negative from where it is with a 1" lowering.
You can also expect camber to change slightly just from unbolting the struts and reconnecting them. There is no hard guarantee that they will go back exactly where they were. Only close.
If you can measure what you have for camber now, and have some idea how hard you'll be taking corners afterward (and how often), that might help you decide before you even buy the springs whether you'll want or need to correct your camber. I'd still plan on having to adjust toe.
Like Sleeper said, for ANY anticipated hard cornering, I'd consider either camber plates or the Steeda HD upper strut mounts (which have camber adjustability built in to them). Any of the so-called "camber bolts" are band-aid solutions at best.
Norm
You can also expect camber to change slightly just from unbolting the struts and reconnecting them. There is no hard guarantee that they will go back exactly where they were. Only close.
If you can measure what you have for camber now, and have some idea how hard you'll be taking corners afterward (and how often), that might help you decide before you even buy the springs whether you'll want or need to correct your camber. I'd still plan on having to adjust toe.
Like Sleeper said, for ANY anticipated hard cornering, I'd consider either camber plates or the Steeda HD upper strut mounts (which have camber adjustability built in to them). Any of the so-called "camber bolts" are band-aid solutions at best.
Norm
Ditto on what everyone else has said. Most likely the 1" will put you in a situation where your negative camber is about what people shoot for in a semi aggressive street setup. Camber bolts slip even on the street. Steeda has some options. They have their Billet Camber Adjusters. Also they have heavy duty upper mounts. If you get these you need the rubber insert off of a set of 2005-2009 upper mounts.
All of the options I mention you remove the strut brace in addition to the struts, springs, wheel etc. The camber plates go on top of the strut between it and the inner part of the strut housing.
All of the options I mention you remove the strut brace in addition to the struts, springs, wheel etc. The camber plates go on top of the strut between it and the inner part of the strut housing.
Sorry, my original post must not have been clear.
I'm not interested in camber bolts... I want: http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html
I think you guys focused more on whether I need the camber plates but my question wasn't whether I need them or not, but rather, if I decide to get them, does it effect the strut tower bar?
The reason I ask is, I've never seen camber plates installed and I'm not sure how the two play together.
Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
I'm not interested in camber bolts... I want: http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html
I think you guys focused more on whether I need the camber plates but my question wasn't whether I need them or not, but rather, if I decide to get them, does it effect the strut tower bar?
The reason I ask is, I've never seen camber plates installed and I'm not sure how the two play together.
Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
Sounds like I probably won't need them, but was just wondering - it wouldn't make sense that you'd have to sacrifice the strut bar but thought there might be some trick or whatever.
Negative camber gives me more grip in corners but sacrifices grip in straight acceleration - Is that right? Sorry this is my Grand Turismo 5 education talking HAHAHA! I have never been a suspension guy, but I'm trying...
If you want to increase your knowledge here is a useful link
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ding-list.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ding-list.html



