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Need lowering advice please!

Old 03-30-2012, 03:47 PM
  #1  
Benzer
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Default Need lowering advice please!

This is my tri-monthly check-in lol.

Anyway, on to business. I've decided that I want to lower my 10 V6. Not too low because it's a DD. I've decided on the Eibach Pro springs because I can live with a 1.5-2" drop.

For the record, I did google this before I posted here. But found mostly info on GTs and V6s that are not my gen. I'll tell you what I know so far:

1. I will need Caster Camber plates and a probably a panhard bar.

2. I will most likely need a custom alignment.

3. New shocks and struts are highly recommended in high mile cars. Mine has
42k so hopefully I'm under the wire there.

Is there anything I'm missing?
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:09 PM
  #2  
Whiskey11
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Originally Posted by Benzer
This is my tri-monthly check-in lol.

Anyway, on to business. I've decided that I want to lower my 10 V6. Not too low because it's a DD. I've decided on the Eibach Pro springs because I can live with a 1.5-2" drop.

For the record, I did google this before I posted here. But found mostly info on GTs and V6s that are not my gen. I'll tell you what I know so far:

1. I will need Caster Camber plates and a probably a panhard bar.

2. I will most likely need a custom alignment.

3. New shocks and struts are highly recommended in high mile cars. Mine has
42k so hopefully I'm under the wire there.

Is there anything I'm missing?
I would say #3 is required. Especially with the V6's. New shocks/struts help so much in the ride department, even on stock springs it's not even funny. I wouldn't want to run them with aftermarket springs, especially not after 42k miles.

#1 you will need an adjustable PHB with a 2" rear drop.

I think you got it though.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:45 AM
  #3  
157dB
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Originally Posted by Benzer

2. I will most likely need a custom alignment.
The front end of a S197 is non-adjustable OEM
except for the toe setting.
The rear will need the panhard bar set to adjust
the side to side placement of the rear end.
The rear end is also non-adjustable OEM.
Dont pay for anything besides a toe adjustment.
Dont let them fool you into thinking that they
are giving you a 'custom' alignment. They will
be giving you something, but you wont like it.
And vaseline will be required.

The lowered stance of the suspension will put
the OEM shocks/struts in a different working
range than they were designed for.
Replace them with some designed for the lowered
placement of the working range. The valving will
work oh so much better.

Last edited by 157dB; 03-31-2012 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:32 AM
  #4  
Benzer
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Yikes! I was hoping that I wouldn't need new shocks and struts. I priced it out and it almost doubles the price. What are your thoughts about coilovers?
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:13 PM
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Whiskey11
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Originally Posted by Benzer
Yikes! I was hoping that I wouldn't need new shocks and struts. I priced it out and it almost doubles the price. What are your thoughts about coilovers?
Not that my opinion is worth much, but do you NEED the adjustable height? Do you NEED the smaller diameter springs? Do you NEED separate rebound and compression damping? Are you planning some insane suspension geometry destroying drop? If you answered no to any of those forget about "coilovers". The front struts are already coil-over-strut so its not like you are improving the motion ratio any by going to coilovers. Basically all you are getting is stiff springs with a "common" and vast size, slightly less weight, adjustable dampers that are designed to operate at all the heights available to be adjusted to by the spring perches.

A set of good quality dampers and good quality lowering springs will set you back about as much as a set of inexpensive coilovers and will probably handle better and for sure will ride better.
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