Originally Posted by jcieutat
I just hate the look of the negative camber on my car. It reminds me of these kids that drop a honda civic and then do not get it realigned!
There's a difference between having more than stock negative camber and understanding why . . . and looking at visibly negative camber as strictly a matter of appearance simply because some other group of look-alikes can't be bothered to correct it is putting appearance above function for no good reason.
Consider this. When you're cornering hard, you want the outside front tire to be no worse than at zero camber. Very slightly negative is better still for cornering, but zero is a good enough target up to pretty serious driving. It's also what you want for the occasional situation where you might need the extra cornering grip (poo does happen, sometimes).
Here's where -1.8° ends up when you're driving the car to the point where you need it. Note that the driver side front tire is actually standing up straighter than the rear tire (which has cambered over the "wrong" way due to tire deflection tilting the whole axle almost 1°). Up front, the static camber has been very nicely balanced out by the body roll, which would other wise have pushed the left front tire out into positive camber (which is truly ugly to look at, if you stop to think about it).
Edit (because I got interrupted and you snuck a reply in before I could submit the original part of this) - Yes, it's daily-driven at that setting and yes, I get very even wear across the tire treads. The driving you describe isn't nearly as hard as mine, but I wouldn't be at all afraid to run -1° if I were driving no harder than you. I'd set it at least that much negative even if it was my wife's car and I didn't drive it very often (hint: she's in her early 60's).
I am going to go ahead and keep the MM caster camber plates. It just sucks that I literally just paid to have this suspension put on. I am going to install them myself and unfortunately pay for another alignment to get it around -.5 camber.
Good choice on the parts, but only -0.5° camber should be reserved for the very mildest of drivers who live in areas where the roads aren't any curvier than the nearest Interstate highway.
Seriously, camber set that low is less performance-oriented than the way even the 2005 - 2010 4.0L V6 cars came stock, and the extra spring rate of your Pro-kit is not going to be enough to completely cover you for having it set that low. The only exception I can think of is if you're strictly a straight-line guy with no interest whatsoever in cornering, where zero camber with the nose up under acceleration is about where you want it to be.
Anyway, once you've got the C-C plates on, there's a half decent chance you'll realize that alignment isn't nearly as scary of an adjustment as the $$$$$ shop racks and the $$.99 alignment expenses imply. All you have to do is move the strut tops in to make camber more negative, out for less. There are several ways to measure camber, and none of them have to cost you more than $50, once. Then check and possibly adjust toe, which isn't very difficult either.