baddog671

I'm currently making a nest of Mustang suspension goodies for a winter project. I've set myself a nice budget, so my current parts-list covers everything but spring isolators and A-arms. No isolators because as long as my current ones are fine, I don't want to deal with squeaking. And I think I'll do A-arms later on when I do another project I have in mind to lighten the front end (tubular K-member, rad support, A's, etc.). Plus they destroy my budget

The one thing I haven't found much discussion on is reusing Ford hardware, specifically the “one time use bolts”. I guess that would include the LCA, panhard, chassis brace, and strut bolts? I’ve found opposing mindsets on this topic, one being “They are ‘One-Time’ bolts for a reason, replace them!”, and the other being “They are bolts, don’t overthink it! I’ve been reusing for years!”

I reused the bolts on my only suspension mod so far, BMR LCAs, and they’ve are fine. However, I want everything to be done properly, of course.

Thanks!

Warpig12354

If what your buying doesn't come with new hardware I would reuse them.

Mob Bomber

I've never known or suspension bolts to be a one time use. If that was the case, everytime I did alignments on cars and had to replace stock suspension parts I would have got new hardware with it. Those bolts can be used over and over again. Just make sure to torque them down properly.

baddog671

This isn't one of the informative threads that I found earlier, but it still is pretty good.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...arm-bolts.html

Norm Peterson

Since your car is an early year, I would strongly urge replacing the strut to knuckle bolts with the upgraded new ones. The old bolts were coarse thread, torqued to 148 ft-lbs. The newer ones are fine thread, slightly stronger, and get torqued to 166 ft-lbs. Since Ford made this running production upgrade, anybody breaking the front suspension of an older year car apart for any reason at all might as well buy the same level of peace of mind here.

Anything that's clearly a torque-to-yield fastener needs to be replaced as it has already been stretched. Think fasteners that call for an initial torque and then require some amount of angular turn. I don't know offhand if any S197 suspension fasteners are in this category, but if any of them are you need to consider them throw-aways as soon as you remove them.

Seemingly minor differences in joint configuration between OE and aftermarket (rear LCAs is a common example) could make a difference in the torque that is actually required. One thought is that if you can attain the specified torque and hold it there without the fastener relaxing (and the torque dropping off), you're almost certainly OK. Just understand that I can't absolutely guarantee this. If the torque does drop off, replace it.

I've also heard about adding a drop of medium-strength threadlocker while you're at it and not putting any suspension fastener through too many torque cycles before replacing them being good practices.


Norm

Whiskey11

I was just about to recommend this. Maximum Motorsports sells the upgraded 166 lb*ft Strut to Spindle bolts and I replaced mine when I did the lowering spring install.

For ALL of the hardware I would recommend some medium strength threadlocker. I haven't had any issues with any of my hardware coming loose after using it. I have had some rear swaybar bolts that weren't tight enough to begin with that allowed the bushing to make a lot of noise, but some good ole German "Gudentite" torque settings works on those. Most of that hardware is basically new Grade 8 hardware anyway!

I don't think any of the suspension bolts are torque to yield but I think Ford recommends replacement because some of the nuts have tapered theads that act like a lock nut. The strut to spindle bolts are a perfect example of that. The new bolts from Maximum Motorsports would not accept their nuts beyond about 3 turns in. Part of the reason I used threadlocker on any bolts I reused.

baddog671

Thanks for the info, guys!

I'm going to pick up 1 or 2 tubes of Blue Locktite for all the hardware, and I'll put those 166 ft/lb bolts on my list. $56.93 for 4 bolts/nuts, that's gonna hurt.

The remainder 9 bolts will probably just get reused with generous threadlocker

Norm Peterson

I think they're a little less expensive at Maximum Motorsports. Don't know about shipping, though.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1360


Norm

baddog671

Yeah, requires 2 sets and shipping is expensive. Totals 56.93

157dB

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=53

Read up and be informed instead of "I've never known..."

http://www.i-car.com/pdf/advantage/o...006/121106.pdf

Just cus you are doing it wrong does not make it right.


BTW, threadlocker only works if the thread are pristine clean.
Brake cleaner and compressed air makes short work of cleaning
the threads.
I use lots of it (blue and red) daily.