As Norm mentioned, you might consider a front end alignment if it's a 2010 and the roads are as jacked as you say they are then it's probably about due.

 

Theoretically, sure, and the usual advertising pitch stops right there. But the forces and tower movements simply aren't big enough most of the time for the average person to detect, and most folks wouldn't even know what they should be noticing.

In street driving, they don't help with chassis flex by enough to matter.

The "normal" case where a STB is likely to be at its best is when you're braking up near the ABS threshhold or when you're actually into the ABS - in this case the towers are moving in opposite directions, so tying them together with a 2-point bar directly helps a little. I say "likely" because even this case depends on which way the towers are trying to move and what your camber settings are.

In cornering, the amount of help from a 2-point bar is much less, since the towers are moving in the same direction, just by very slightly different amounts. But not enough is happening below 5/10 cornering (where virtually all street driving lives) for this to be actually physically noticeable except to professional test drivers and racers with a lot of experience.

If you install a 3-point or 4-point bar tied to appropriate places on the firewall/cowl structure and take your cornering up past 7/10ths, a sensitive driver might be able to notice the difference in back to back test runs over the same course.


Norm

 

Steeda addressed the strut tower brace in one of our videos. This will give you a good breakdown of what the strut tower brace does and how it will help.


Please let me know if you have any questions?

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Steeda addressed the strut tower brace in one of our videos. This will give you a good breakdown of what the strut tower brace does and how it will help.


Please let me know if you have any questions?

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Looks like the shocks are the top option/opinion. I appreciate everyone's advise.

 

I don't think there is any question that until you have a quality combo change out of high performance springs, shocks, and sway bars, it is pointless to judge these other issues.

Those three items made such a dramatic difference to me, that on the street, the addition of my STB, g-trac bar, 4 point brace, sway bar braces, as a combo make another noticeable difference, but individually would be much more subtle to notice than the addition of the springs, shocks, and sway bars.

In the rear the Watts link was the only other item that had an immediate and dramatic effect on rear composure and grip over bumps and bumpy hard cornering. Before the Watts, the addition initially of my Shock tower brace, the better LCR's, or my rear chassis stiffening braces, or the adjustable UCA were hardly noticeable on the street.

I think on the street with 440 HP or less, the hype about the added improvement of aftermarket LCR's is way over rated. When I was at 435HP with my initial Saleen series VI tune, launching and gripping with the stock control arms was no worse than with the aftermarket LCR's in my opinion.

In my direct experience, the springs, shocks, sway bars, and the Watts link had the most positive directly noticeable effect on cornering and suspension stability. Erik

 

I say to the OP just save up and get lowering springs.
this will help alot with the floatiness up front and all around.
but i agree, you may want to check your tires to make sure they arent worn out.

 

Not sure if having a strut brace will fix your problem, but it sure helped with my convertible, I couldn't believe how much solid my car felt after add a $100 strut brace.

Just remember the 4 screws to mount it are at just 27 fl-lbs of torque. Very easy to over tighten.

 

I too got a Boss 302 brace from CJ's for $89.00 and it gives you "Peace of Mind" as to
squeaks over time and such, I also carve corners around my area for entertainment!

 

I have a 2010 GT convertible that came from the factory with the brace. I had the same issue of the front end feeling "floaty" on certain roads even with the brace. The cure for me was installing a set of Koni Yellows.