Help me build a solid 10 second car
#1
Help me build a solid 10 second car
I have an 08 GT-500 with only the FRPP cai and tune, CHE relocation brackets out back with stock control arms, and a Pypes axle back exhaust. It hasn't been Dyno'd or raced yet (previous post asked for HP quesses). I want to build the car until it SHOULD be around the high ten's and then race it. Here's what i think will do it:
Suspension first:
CHE adj panhard bar (should i also get the panhard brace?)
CHE adj upper and lower control arms
Eibach lowering springs (Pro kit or Sportline?)
Tonika struts and shocks?
Nitto NT05 drag radial rear tires
Then,
Ford Racing short shifter
Ford Racing rear gears (3.73)
Then,
Whipple supercharger (size?),injectors (size?), plugs (anything else?), Throttle body, and of course a good tune.
The goal is to keep the GT-500 as streetable as possible but make it a beast in the quarter mile. It would not be raced often.
Any other mod's needed? Am i on target? Recommendations on anything experienced welcomed to help me acheive my goal.
Suspension first:
CHE adj panhard bar (should i also get the panhard brace?)
CHE adj upper and lower control arms
Eibach lowering springs (Pro kit or Sportline?)
Tonika struts and shocks?
Nitto NT05 drag radial rear tires
Then,
Ford Racing short shifter
Ford Racing rear gears (3.73)
Then,
Whipple supercharger (size?),injectors (size?), plugs (anything else?), Throttle body, and of course a good tune.
The goal is to keep the GT-500 as streetable as possible but make it a beast in the quarter mile. It would not be raced often.
Any other mod's needed? Am i on target? Recommendations on anything experienced welcomed to help me acheive my goal.
#2
Honestly a stock Eaton blower pulley change to a 2.6...a great tune...some work to keep the intake temps below 130 degrees so the car wont pull timing...a little suspension work with an aluminum ds.. with good tires..you are there...
#3
It takes a little more then that, about 600 at the wheels. 2.6 upper, 10% lower, Long tubes, CAI, good tune for C12/14/16 Alu/CF DS. 373 gears, DRs Ported eaton, lot's of cool dry air. Then he will be luck to put a 10s down every time.
Last edited by mobydick; 09-01-2010 at 06:34 AM.
#4
What RWHP do you have with your mods?? I agree air density will be the big factor...but some guys do break 10s with 550 and a little over..but to be in deep..better go to the 725 Whipple setup...
Last edited by Lifter583; 09-02-2010 at 03:01 PM.
#5
Thanks for the input. I should be putting down around 480-490 at the wheels with cool temps. What do you guys think about modding these babies up and hurting the resale value? I'm thinking oh well, but i reckon it's something to at least consider.
#7
I have the older version of the Evolution stage 4, Not Whipple TB or Lower. Mine makes 561 hp and about the same Tq. Mine a vert so it's alittle heavier. My best is 11.491@123.33.
#8
Strong car...I bet you are closer to breaking the 10s then you think...with the right tires and all the right moves...
#10
Those are some good numbers. I am doing a Dyno in two weeks with just the FRPP and Procal tune. I'll be interested to see what happens. For the rear end i ended up ordering Steeda adjustable upper arm and mount, billet lower arms, (i already have the relocation brackets), and an adjustable panhard bar with brace. Then i'll go ahead with the short throw and 3:73's and see what i can do before i start the power mod's. Think i'll have any pinion issues? I heard it should be set between zero and negative 2?
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