Anybody with "REAL" LS1 knowledge can you please advice me?

I plan on getting a '01 Vette in November. I Know that the Z's have the LS6 and I'll have the LS1. First question is: What is the difference between the two? Detail is fine if you know? The second question is: What will it take to get 55Hp out of the stock LS1? I was told that F/I may be the only way. I was also told that Bolt-ons and a cam would do the trick. Basically, what will be the cheapest and most efficient N/A way to go?

Josh

 

LS1 responds very well to a high lift cam and opening up the exhaust. Spray is also VERY effective.

There are some guys here that will be MORE than happy to help. [8D] Stay tuned...

 

Longtubes (pacesetter makes nice ones that wont break the bank) A Z06 cam (if you want to be stealthy, or a T-rex or better yet a custom grind by comp cams would make more power, Comp 918 springs, and hardened pushrods + a good dyno-tune. In a 6-speed car that will have you close to 375-385rwhp in a Vette This is OVER SEVEN TIMES!!! than your original goal of "getting 55hp out of a stock LS1" so you should be VERY happy

PS. dont take my advice for it, double check with a trusted shop, but I should be VERY close to the mark on it. Oh, btw, get a DMH cut-out or a QTP cutout (electric) setup ,its cheaper than a cat-back, makes MORE hp, and you can turn the noise on or off as the situation demands (cops, late-night residential areas---chics in a car, slow ppl, unsuspecting cars [8D] )

These mods will put you DEEP in the 12's and maybe high in the 11's depending on how well you hook and how proficient you drive.


Now...on the unimportant crap. The LS6 motors got a better cam and slightly better heads, thats about it for the real issues. you will have an LS6 intake on your car already, so basically, change the cam and dont worry about the heads, your heads will flow 25X cfm bone stock at .600 lift, dont sweat it. head-swaps on LSx cars normally only get you 30 or so whp at the most. Nothing like replacing the POS heads on a mustang. GM did it right to begin with on these cars.


*EDIT*

Whoever told you FI was the only way to gain 55whp on an LS1 is an ***-hat. A cam and tune alone could do that if you went with a decent one. The package I outlined for you is worth 60-90whp over stock, depending on how agressive you go if you get a custom cam.

 

PS. LSX cars like spray, SUPPOSEDLY they take 150 shots ok, 200 is pressing your luck big time, and 100-125 is comfortable. But you wanted NA and I personally DO NOT!!! like the juice, so I gave you the N/A route.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I will not do juice on this car. If I do anything it will be F/I, but I want to squeeze as much of the engine by itself. All the stuff you were talking about with the cams sounds pretty accurate same stuff I was hearing at LS1, but nobody replied to my post over there. Sad, I post on a LS1 forum and get nothing, but within minutes I get a couple paragraphs on a Mustang Forum. I may end up with the Z anyway depending on the situation in November-December. It will be black with a 6spd.

By the way, I was talking additional 55Hp. Haha. I was like, huh? then went back and read what I posted, What a tard? I should have read that over before hitting OK.

Keep the help coming guys, comments as well.

Josh

EDIT: Seeing that I was posting while you were editing, I'll reply. There was only 1 guy who said that, then he got called out by a few others. It's a lot cheaper to put in a bigger Bumpstick and do some bolt-ons to get to the mark I want. One girl has a 98 on DC that she put a Procharger(?) on it and runs 11's all day not to mention it's her DD with 186,000miles on the clock. I really can't wait til I get mine.

 

My friend has an IROC Z with a LS1/T56 swap. $1250 for Dart heads, $600 for a custom comp cam + valvetrain, $700 for headers, bigger TB and MAF(I think, not sure on those 2) + Underdrive pullies ($250) and

he layed down 428.XX to the tires.

That should give you an idea of how easy this will be to accomplish. PS, those DART heads were the cheapest route, with AFR's he would have been close to 450 at the tires or so, but you really dont need to worry about heads that much.

His car would have been around 400whp even with stock heads,

he just wanted to do the work because a valve that he bought had issues and was nicked (some issue I dont recall relating to hassle) and he didnt want to mess with it so he got some pre-assymbled heads.

For the record he trapped 92 or 93 (I dont recall) in the 1/8 mile with a bad launch and a fuel issue that cost him his rings a few weeks later ( not sure what happened really, but its blowing a lot of smoke and the like. He was getting some detonation as well, he had had fuel pressure issues for a few weeks and drove it anyways, now going 408 or 427 IIRC.

 

You could supercharge, or go NA, I would do NA personally just b/c I am a fan of it and the LS1 motor responds so beautifully, but dont get a cam that requires TONNES of rpm imho. Get something that will top out in the mid 6,000rpm range so you dont have to worry about rod bolts and shifting (the T56 and GM hydrolic clutch does not like 6500+ rpm shifts unless you do the "drill mod" which a search for such on LS1tech.com will outline for you).

 

You and me both, I plan on going with a 99-02 6-speed SS sometime this coming summer. I think I can get a pretty clean one for around 13K + TTL. I will be doing E-cutout and Lid.

 

That sounds very promising, especially with that set-up in a C5 vette with all the suspension upgrades (compared the IROC-Z). Good stuff man!! Thanks

Josh

 

If it's an auto, gears and a stall will make it a lot faster on the dragstrip. 2.73 gears and a 1,400 RPM stall speed make for a weak launch. 6-speeds respond well to steeper gears, though that would further weaken the already weak rear. 3.42 is a good ratio anyway.
Stanger and 4stangs (!) are correct. You can PM me with any other questions you may have. And because this is LS1 Tech Jr, there are other guys here (most of whom are more knowledegable than me) who can help as well.