How much ET change does gears make?
I always run the car hot. Same temp on the first time shot until the final round. I do have to install a good set of oil, trans and water temp gauges. Engine and trans temps are important to keep hot in additional to the water temp. When I say hot I meannormal operating temps not overheating hot.
+1, engines run best when they're in the proper temperature range. If the engine is too cold you could actually lose power from a decrease in the rate of combustion(cooler burns slower, hotter burns faster). It's even more of an issue with us carb'd guys. It cracks me up seeing guys with carbs cooling the **** out of the intake/heads, not realising they MUST have heat in the intake to vaporize/atomise the fuel to get good combustion, otherwise the carb setup just ain't gonna do what it's supposed to do.
ORIGINAL: buster
People always wonder why I try to run my car hot as I can get it when I bracket race. If you run a trophy car or one of the lower classes like me, when you start out and you have 60 cars in your class, and the faster cars go around and they want time to cool their cars and the "lower" cars are lined up, back on the track you go. I once had about 3 mins between rounds and was back on the trck. i get a kick out of these guys running bracket and they are trying to get ice on the intake and such things trying to cool their cars. It doesn't work guys. If you are in competition, you have to do race by the track owner rules.
ORIGINAL: modaddict
Yep - right about what I thought. Good numbers and great consistency. You are dangerous in the brackets sir!
ORIGINAL: kazman
The 3.73's dropped .05 in 60', 1.2 ET' , increased top mph by 1 mph and cross the finish just under 5K. Didn't have a problem hooking. I ran the drag radials at 30lbs and footbraked to 1500rpm. I was hitting .040 lights. Elimination rounds 2, 3, and 4 I was able to run the car flat out. Constant 2.11x 60' and ran 13.694, 13.696, and 13.697. Round 4 air got better and won tapping the brakes on the top end and ran a 13.705 on a 13.70 dial. I didn't go with the 4.10 because of gas mileage (drive 40 miles a day) and of the possible hooking issues with just drag radials and a stock supension.
I can't launch the car any harder with the stock converter. At 1750 rpm the car tends to push out of the beams. I run 30lbs of air because that will make the car launch a tad quicker (RT thing). The higher air pressure and higher launch rpm the quicker the car launches. I really need to launch a bit harder , leaving at 1800rmp (if it was possible) would put me in the .00X RT range. I think the 4.10 might of put me there. Still hooking with them is questionable.
ORIGINAL: modaddict
^^^Bingo!
And I would be surprised if he picks up 2 tenths with just 3.73's. The S197 is it's own animal and cannot be compared to anything other then other S197's when it comes to hooking the car...
If you haven't done anything else to your rear, what is going to happen is you are going to bite LESS with the 3.73's and my bet is you may actually lose a tenth.
If you want to really capitolize on the taller gear, you need to also upgrade your control arms, a panhard bar, and make sure you are using some good rubber. The taller gears are going to hit harder when you take off and make traction more difficult (not better or easier) with your stock set-up. Having said that - it is also a fact that there is not much gain going from the 3.33's to the 3.73's on a manual. You don't buy gears because people say they are good on a forum or because a certain ratio 'sounds about right'. You buy gears based on your MPH...period.
You establish what is going to be your max MPH in the 1/4 and you go with the tallest gear you can to not run out. That is drag 101 but for everyday street cars - yes, it's a little different and the 3.73's are going to be more 'fun' for you on the street but don't expect quicker ET's out of them unless you upgrade some other stuff to compliment them...
Despite what some people say, it is going to be HARDER to hook as go up in gears. This goes right along with what the vast majority of guys do...
make power 1st and worry about hooking later. This is why there are so many high HP cars out there but few 'fast' cars.
Hooking is #1 - power is second - that is the recipe for low et's...
(that and forget HP and worry about TORQUE...LOL)
EDIT - I saw you have BFG's in your sig. Might gain a 10th with the 3.73's but still think you will need CA's and a panhard bar to see 2-3 tenths out of them.
^^^Bingo!
And I would be surprised if he picks up 2 tenths with just 3.73's. The S197 is it's own animal and cannot be compared to anything other then other S197's when it comes to hooking the car...

If you haven't done anything else to your rear, what is going to happen is you are going to bite LESS with the 3.73's and my bet is you may actually lose a tenth.
If you want to really capitolize on the taller gear, you need to also upgrade your control arms, a panhard bar, and make sure you are using some good rubber. The taller gears are going to hit harder when you take off and make traction more difficult (not better or easier) with your stock set-up. Having said that - it is also a fact that there is not much gain going from the 3.33's to the 3.73's on a manual. You don't buy gears because people say they are good on a forum or because a certain ratio 'sounds about right'. You buy gears based on your MPH...period.
You establish what is going to be your max MPH in the 1/4 and you go with the tallest gear you can to not run out. That is drag 101 but for everyday street cars - yes, it's a little different and the 3.73's are going to be more 'fun' for you on the street but don't expect quicker ET's out of them unless you upgrade some other stuff to compliment them...

Despite what some people say, it is going to be HARDER to hook as go up in gears. This goes right along with what the vast majority of guys do...
make power 1st and worry about hooking later. This is why there are so many high HP cars out there but few 'fast' cars.
Hooking is #1 - power is second - that is the recipe for low et's...
(that and forget HP and worry about TORQUE...LOL)EDIT - I saw you have BFG's in your sig. Might gain a 10th with the 3.73's but still think you will need CA's and a panhard bar to see 2-3 tenths out of them.
I can't launch the car any harder with the stock converter. At 1750 rpm the car tends to push out of the beams. I run 30lbs of air because that will make the car launch a tad quicker (RT thing). The higher air pressure and higher launch rpm the quicker the car launches. I really need to launch a bit harder , leaving at 1800rmp (if it was possible) would put me in the .00X RT range. I think the 4.10 might of put me there. Still hooking with them is questionable.
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