97 Cobra engine rattle at mid RPM
01-13-2010, 07:54 PM
#21
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,925
OK - believe it or not, even though I freaked out a bit in my last post, I have 2 years of training in auto mechanics (though I never worked professionally in the field - I got into the computer field instead).
So - I'm hearing what you guys are saying - do it myself. I own a torque wrench, have a garage, so I can do this. I had initially though I would anyway, but the guy at the machine shop told me in the beginning (before realizing how expensive the parts are) that a refresh might run 1800.00 or so. That I could handle. Not 5600.00 though.
I have a couple of questions (the first of many, I am sure):
1) The "torque to yield" bolts for the mains, the heads and the rod bearings... Why are they engineered like that? To make the engines disposable? Can you buy "regular" bolts that can be re-torqued so I don't have to waste a set when measuring clearances with the plastigauge?
2) The machine shop says that the block and cylinders look good. So - if I go to forged rods and pistons - do I need to overbore, or can I buy forged pistons in the standard bore size and just hone the cylinders?
Thanks for pulling me back from the edge...
So - I'm hearing what you guys are saying - do it myself. I own a torque wrench, have a garage, so I can do this. I had initially though I would anyway, but the guy at the machine shop told me in the beginning (before realizing how expensive the parts are) that a refresh might run 1800.00 or so. That I could handle. Not 5600.00 though.
I have a couple of questions (the first of many, I am sure):
1) The "torque to yield" bolts for the mains, the heads and the rod bearings... Why are they engineered like that? To make the engines disposable? Can you buy "regular" bolts that can be re-torqued so I don't have to waste a set when measuring clearances with the plastigauge?
2) The machine shop says that the block and cylinders look good. So - if I go to forged rods and pistons - do I need to overbore, or can I buy forged pistons in the standard bore size and just hone the cylinders?
Thanks for pulling me back from the edge...
Pretty sure you can get standard sizes for the forged stuff.
01-14-2010, 07:16 AM
#22
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: va
Posts: 7
Its all good
We looked into the MMR route, but the shortblock doesnt come with all of the timing accessories, etc. So, thats probably an expensive route to go, unless we just want those parts.
As for the 5600 bux, my jaw dropped when he said that. There is absolutely no way it would cost that much. I literally think the guy just doesnt want to do the work. He is probably slammed with work at this time of year. Most of the other people are getting stroker kits, etc. Where the real money is at vs a standard rebuild. Why else?
As for doing it ourselves, i have never done this kind of thing. I know it cant be too hard, but I would have to do some research so that I can help him the way I should. No prob. Im just studying for certs too. I do have time to help though.
If he wants, we can do it. I bet I also have a few friends in the machinist business that could help too. Time to get on facebook...
As for the 5600 bux, my jaw dropped when he said that. There is absolutely no way it would cost that much. I literally think the guy just doesnt want to do the work. He is probably slammed with work at this time of year. Most of the other people are getting stroker kits, etc. Where the real money is at vs a standard rebuild. Why else?
As for doing it ourselves, i have never done this kind of thing. I know it cant be too hard, but I would have to do some research so that I can help him the way I should. No prob. Im just studying for certs too. I do have time to help though.
If he wants, we can do it. I bet I also have a few friends in the machinist business that could help too. Time to get on facebook...
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