As far as giving the other guys a reality check, remember that all the HP in the world does no good if you can't put it to the ground. You'd be wiser, with a street car, to keep the power modest and pay close attention to putting it down.

Many a monster motor has fallen to the little guy because traction was not on the menu.

 

You are 100% correct. That's also part of the de-tune factor. I don't want more power than the tires will hold. Also, I am not planning on re-gearing the car. As of now it has 3.27s in it and I will leave them be if I stay solid axle. But I have a lead on a good low miles Termi IRS setup (the good 03-04 stuff) so I may swap that in. Now I know that they don't do that well on hard launches, but I never plan on putting slicks on the back of it, so worse case I'll put some good shafts in it and roll with it (along with the normal braces and such). Unless... you guys think that it would be a waste of time swapping to the IRS, I hear it handles a lot better in the twisties, but you get some tire hop if you start spinning. Is this mostly just with hard launches at the strip, or will it be a substantial problem on the street as well? Obviously it won't be that great of a car if I'm just blowing the rear end out from under it after every curve, so is it a good idea to go to the Termi IRS (with the stock 3.55 gears) or should I just keep the straight axle and just get some aftermarket control arms? As in, which setup will put the power to the ground the best in a road racing atmosphere?

 

that last post was kinda funny cause i feel like you kept saying the same the over and over again but in diff ways hahaha im just messin with you dude....id keep your solid man if you switch to the IRS you gotta make a handful of changes to make it hold to the power strip and street..i have a solid rear swapped into mine and its the best riding mustang ive had and better then all my friends...my old 01 had the IRS it was cool but it wasnt the greatest thing in the world i had so much wheel hop it was a mess...

traction will prolly be an issue...i have 3.73's with 650hp and its really tough to get traction alot times i get excited and give to much throttle and i have to play the catch up game lol so i would say 3.73 is the limit and almost to much but 3.55 would be nice too

good luck

 

Thanks for the info. Its always nice to hear it from someone with first hand experience as hearsay is usually not 100% correct. There are a few things I could do to make the car handle better I guess. I think there is a company that makes a panhard kit for the back of my car, but I can't remember who it was. Any other suggestions? The car puts the power to the ground great now, but when the power doubles, it may not. So should I just go with a set of aftermarket rear control arms to help? Which ones would you suggest?

I was at the dyno shop again today and they ran a Termi car of a customers. He has a stock blower (ported) and a 150 shot of nitrous on the car. Well, at some point the car laid down over 700 to the tires (not today, in the past). The customer got his hands on a set of used cams and after the install he actually lost power both with and without spray... so they are gonna come back out I guess. Bear in mind, they came out of a car with a kenne bell and a lot more boost than what this guys car was producing, so they just didn't jive well with his setup. When it made over 700 it was with stock cams... so at this point Im really starting to wonder if spending almost $2000 more for a cam setup is really worth it. That even seems to be the general consensus on here, that cams aren't really [/I]that[/I] great of a thing to have unless you just dig the sound. I've pretty much decided that Im gonna skip the cams, and just go for the blower with a built bottom end. I will clean up the heads and gasket match it all. It will save me money and I think it will turn out perfect for what I want to do, without the cams. I guess if I get bored with it I can always swap the cams out at a later time...

 

If the cams were hurting him, they were not the right grind for his build, cams are worth it if they are specifically set-up for what you are running.

On a side note, Guys with ported eatons tend to spray because above ~18lbs on an eaton and you start to see heatsoak, nitrous counteracts that. Just a tidbit fyi.

 

as far as your rearend i would do a total upgrade from axles to control arms to bushing to springs and shocks...i dont think you need to worry or go to crazy bout trying to get traction get some good springs and adjustable shocks (mine: steeda drag springs QA1 fully adjustable shocks) so that you can make your car squat and stand the way you want it to...also get you some sticky 315 tires...with hp like that if you bang through the gears you will have an issue unless you got some slicks on there thats just the nature of the power beast...

you cant go by somneone gettin used cams thats just stupid lol...comp stage 2 are good cams i have heard of a few people making some really good number with those it sounds mean as hell but the amount of help it would give over the blower is small...meaning if you want cams with a blower in my opinion you are basically buying 2000 dollar sound lol....granted it will make a power diff dont take me wrong but that 2k can be spent elsewhere such as improving other aspects of your motor or your sc or tranny etc etc

if i get rich someday i will get cams cause they sound awesome hahaha...but they arent in my mod list really cause there are many other aspects that can be tend to before that like upgraded fuel diamond pistons and rods the 2.9 whipple

i guess you need to look at cost and everything a decide what you can do and what you wanna do and need to do...to get your car up and running that it wont break needs attention first i.e your tranny your clutch your rearend your fuel system etc

 

Well, the car already has been lowered and has Eibach springs all the way around. Im not sure of the shocks and struts though. Remember, I am not going to drag this car at all, so Im not so sure about getting drag specific springs for the rear. The car had Aftermarket sway bars front and rear, but the rear broke so I just put a brand new stock cobra one on it. Im sure that the control arms need to be upgraded though. I think Im going to just stay with stock cams and I will put that $2000 towards something else like the trans and a good clutch. I will get some good control arms too. I doubt I will have any issues with the stock axle shafts since I won't be launching it at the track.

 

no i understand mines a street car also but its just a name that steeda gave those because they act a certain way when you take off meaning the squat then raise which is also what the shocks do...ya just be prepared to fix broken parts lol

 

Let's be honest. There isn't a daily driver situation where you will know the difference between 500 HP and 700 HP, except maybe on an empty stretch of interstate, and only then if the two are side by side. It simply takes a much more developed chassis and driver to exploit that kind of power, so anything like that in a street car is for bragging rights on dyno night.

Quit talikng about big numbers and break down what you really want from your car. Is it bragging rights, or do you really have a situation where you come into a straightaway and the kid up the block is pulling away? Cut the bull**** and get specific about what you want improved about your setup. If you blindly go for big numbers, you will either exceed your skill level, kill your low speed manners to the point of utter disgust, or both. A Ferrari or Lamorghini is an extremely exotic setup with extraordinary measures taken to get them to behave at low speed. How do you address that in your ambitions?

It comes down to this: There will always be someone bigger out there. How you spend your money now can mean the difference between a really fun, manageable car that you can drive all the time, OR you can have a terribly unbalanced, noisy engine stand with 4 wheels to carry your dyno trophy between cruise nights. Either way, there is another out there that can out spend you.

 

Well, AGAIN, Im focusing on a road race build. Right now the car is fine on tracks/roads that don't have any real straight aways (for example; deals gap). Don't have any real complaints there, other than burning a **** ton of oil. But, on the Skyway, I don't get as much speed as I would like going across the straighaway at the top. So basically, Im pretty dang happy with how it is now, but I want more torque/horsepower to get me moving faster, quicker. Im sure the car will do 150 now, but if it takes me a mile to get there, it doesn't help in a road race situation. I need to be able to accelerate quicker, don't really care that much about a higher top speed, but I don't want a lower gear because the car seems to be geared just about where it needs to be so that I can run the Gap in mostly 2nd, and run the skyway in 3rd and 4th. So I want to get that faster acceleration by increasing power, not by mechanical advantage.

The whole reason for even doing this is because it has to come apart anyway, and a build for a blower isn't the same build as a car that will be kept N/A. I have been planning on a blower since buying the car, so might as well build the car for that now while its apart.