Spending 9k help
ORIGINAL: BlackStang_04
I know the CAI would have to go once i go FI, I guess what I ment though was would I need all the stage 3 extras like the 65mm throttle body and the gasket kit, exc..just trying to figure if those are a good idea or not really.
I know the CAI would have to go once i go FI, I guess what I ment though was would I need all the stage 3 extras like the 65mm throttle body and the gasket kit, exc..just trying to figure if those are a good idea or not really.
All those parts offered as part of the options are already in your car only less powerful and efficient. Wouldn't hurt to get them and it wouldn't fail to work if you didn't.
ORIGINAL: nanaki
uh... you'd most certainly want an lsd of sorts for your car too. what's the point of having 350RWHP if you're gonna just spin 1 tire?
it's amazing how many "i have (insert ammount here) to spend, what should i get?" threads. i must have seen thousands in my time here and not 1 of them actually did a damn thing.
uh... you'd most certainly want an lsd of sorts for your car too. what's the point of having 350RWHP if you're gonna just spin 1 tire?
it's amazing how many "i have (insert ammount here) to spend, what should i get?" threads. i must have seen thousands in my time here and not 1 of them actually did a damn thing.

Anyways, there is one crutial part that has been forgotten, the clutch, remember, your stock clutch is only good up to so much rwtq. What you need to do, is figure out exactly what route you want to go, then get a clutch that's going to meet your needs. http://www.autobadges.com/ sells Spec clutches, and are very good I might add, so once you figure out exactly what you're going to do, the clutch should be one of the first mods on your list. A short shifter wouldn't hurt either, not really a performance mod, but makes that damn 2nd to 3rd shift 10X easier.
thats what I was thinking today while at class, wouldn't it be best to put to powerpack and stroke it out to a 4.2 or 3 and tune with a diablo before going FI. since if i went with the powerpack and FI then later went with stroking it out then it would be a much bigger hassle?
as far as the clutch goes how much rwhp/twtq are we talking about having when all said and done if i went with the stroker idea and powerpack mid to high 300s? I know the block can take almost 500 safly but not sure on the clutch. oh as for the shifter i forgot to mention already bribed my father to get me a steeda tri axle so that should be more tehn good right?
thanks again for all the imput thus far guys, very helpful
as far as the clutch goes how much rwhp/twtq are we talking about having when all said and done if i went with the stroker idea and powerpack mid to high 300s? I know the block can take almost 500 safly but not sure on the clutch. oh as for the shifter i forgot to mention already bribed my father to get me a steeda tri axle so that should be more tehn good right?
thanks again for all the imput thus far guys, very helpful
V6 clutches are different than GTs, and don't take as much rwtq. Personally, I'd get teh Stage 3 when you get the stroker kit, and ported intake. "IF" you get both at the same time, you'll be in the Stage 2 range, but if you plan on going F/I, then you'll probably need a 3.
ORIGINAL: BeachStang04
Heres an idea, sell the six and put the 9 grand twoards a gt. That right there is your best bet
Heres an idea, sell the six and put the 9 grand twoards a gt. That right there is your best bet
SELL IT AND GET A GT... well thats just not an option, this car already has about 5k put into it and I dont want to pay for v8 insurance just for the badge
Don't forget about subframe connectors or any of that stuff. Goto MaximumMotorsports.com for that stuff. They have kits for street, strip, track. .. and if I was you, I'd get an 8.8 rearend. When you're going to be making a **** load of power as a daily driver, you'll want a reliable driveline. My dad reminded me that, you could have all the power in the world but not go anywhere. Just some advice.
-K
-K


