Trmachuno

I was originally going all out speed for my car, but since my last step is a supercharger, I have a little extra money, and know someone who can get me a sub system really cheap bought and installed. The extra weight will only 40-80lbs in the trunk andthat should help with traction for my supercharger. Will the 40-80lbs more in my trunk hurt my overall performance or will it cancel out b/c it aids in traction and weight transferfor the supercharger?Thanks ahead!

basketballord

I don't know about performance, but I say do it for the sake of adding some bump to your music. I couldn't live without my sub haha

Trmachuno

Yeah, I was thinking about that b/c I already got the shaker 500(500 watts)-subs in the doors and that's got me really addicted to the bass/bump in my music right now. One of my friend's works for a carelectronics store and can get me a sub system really cheap bought and installed. I am still not sure, looking for more input on the performance loss/gain, etc.

StrykerJ1G

basketballord,
What did you hook your remote lead to? Do you have a aftermarket HU? Im having problems finding a power source for the remote lead and im about to jsut give up and buy a aftermarket HU instead of messing with the factory HU

07lane40

the stock system 500 or 1000 is crap compared to aftermarket stuff. i replaced my stocks with 4 polk 5x7's and a kicker 350.4 and a Kicker L5 12" and a 750.1 amp. that stuff gets expensive, but its so worth it. stock sounds like tin compared to aftermarket when its been tuned right. do it for the sound. chicks love a sick system. also, look into dynamat. stuff tends to rattle when you get much power behind a sub. you might see a slight drop in a 1/4 time, but you really shouldnt notice that much of a difference. they say every 10lbs is worht 1 HP, so take that into consideration.

basketballord

I have the stock Shaker 500 HU. I had a car audio place do the remote lead for me cuz I didn't know what to splice into. Found one wire that was only hot with the ignition on, but it didn't run enough juice to turn the amp on. And I had heard about deploying the airbag if you do the wrong one, so I didn't want to mess with it. The guy that did it said he just wired it into the ignition, which is logical and has worked great. As for the rest of the setup, my amp had a speaker-level input, so I spliced into the rear speaker wires in the trunk to get the speaker signal and mounted the amp in the trunk, made it really simple and cheap. The car audio place quoted me 300 for the complete install, even though I had everything but the amp install kit. They said I needed some sort of converter. Instead, I did it all on my own and got the amp install kit for $50 and had them wire the remote lead for $30. $80 > $300

basketballord

o and this might be quite helpful...
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~81663

StrykerJ1G

Yes i did the speaker signal on the rear speaker like you did. I have all my wires ran through and all hooked up to amp, just the remote lead needs to be powered. Im just goinna take it my local audio shop and get them to hook the lead up for hopefully $30 like you had.