X-Charger help
03-21-2009, 06:32 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 707
Once I did the "everybody does it" upgrades...my car would just do one wheel peels EVERY time I hit the gas...even with non-spirited driving. Gears REALLY wake up the car...and then the posi makes it actually move.
IMO, the lack of a posi is a bit of a safety issues, but you get what you pay for, and I knew that going into the purchase.
04-12-2009, 08:45 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 371
You don't NEED anything with the X-charger. That's why it is a great product, even for a novice.
However if you have the desire to give your car what it wants, couple suggestions.
A) New Rear End. These are larger, stronger, have a higher gears (but not too high, so still good for DD), has T-Loc limited slip, and quite affordable. If you buy gears, and pay somebody to install them... they'll cost about the same as this. Might as well get the whole package for the same cost, much better investment. Plus it has the V6 flange already on there, don't need to buy a separate one. Direct bolt on assembly, it'll take a couple hours but you can do this yourself. I can't say ONLY basic hand tools, it's possible but I recommend an airgun for just 1 of the bolts. The terminology skips my head right as it's morning and I need more coffee in me but it's the large bolt at the top/center of the axle, it bolts the axle to the support plate. Getting a ratchet up there is a pain, you're going to bust a knuckle or two. The airgun will zip it in and out and save you a lot of headache. Every other bolt though go right ahead and use handtools.
B) Only if you redline shift, dragrace, etc. Torque Limiters. These hold the engine steady, keeps it from torquing over. 2nd to 3rd shifting is the main focus, as a redline shift from 2nd into 3rd most of the time it'll just bounce. Because the engine has torqued over enough. Bolt this on and it will kill this problem. But again if you aren't looking to dragrace then it's not exactly necessary and can wait for the future.
C) True Dual Exhaust. Didn't post a link because there's a larger variety, it depends on what you want. Xpipe, Hpipe, long or short headers or keep factory ones, which mufflers, etc. I can tell you what I went with, BBK Shorty Headers - JBA H-hipe exhaust piping - MRT AeroTurbine "mufflers" (they don't muffle ****
). With a supercharger the easier the exhaust can flow through the better.
D) Aluminum Driveshaft. Just as strong but vastly lighter than the factory driveshaft. Plus no adapter plates or anything it's a direct bolt on, if you have a set of wrenches then you can do this yourself. The safety loop will require drilling, though. Not mandatory but just precautionary. Downside is it is 4" in diameter, I'd like to find a 3.5" one personally. Can't seem to find it, and found a company with an article claiming they make one only to find out they don't so that sucks hard. However this one is only a slight performance increase, it won't give you near as much satisfaction as the 8,8" rear or the dual exhaust. But it does transfer the power better.
However if you have the desire to give your car what it wants, couple suggestions.
A) New Rear End. These are larger, stronger, have a higher gears (but not too high, so still good for DD), has T-Loc limited slip, and quite affordable. If you buy gears, and pay somebody to install them... they'll cost about the same as this. Might as well get the whole package for the same cost, much better investment. Plus it has the V6 flange already on there, don't need to buy a separate one. Direct bolt on assembly, it'll take a couple hours but you can do this yourself. I can't say ONLY basic hand tools, it's possible but I recommend an airgun for just 1 of the bolts. The terminology skips my head right as it's morning and I need more coffee in me but it's the large bolt at the top/center of the axle, it bolts the axle to the support plate. Getting a ratchet up there is a pain, you're going to bust a knuckle or two. The airgun will zip it in and out and save you a lot of headache. Every other bolt though go right ahead and use handtools.
B) Only if you redline shift, dragrace, etc. Torque Limiters. These hold the engine steady, keeps it from torquing over. 2nd to 3rd shifting is the main focus, as a redline shift from 2nd into 3rd most of the time it'll just bounce. Because the engine has torqued over enough. Bolt this on and it will kill this problem. But again if you aren't looking to dragrace then it's not exactly necessary and can wait for the future.
C) True Dual Exhaust. Didn't post a link because there's a larger variety, it depends on what you want. Xpipe, Hpipe, long or short headers or keep factory ones, which mufflers, etc. I can tell you what I went with, BBK Shorty Headers - JBA H-hipe exhaust piping - MRT AeroTurbine "mufflers" (they don't muffle ****
). With a supercharger the easier the exhaust can flow through the better. D) Aluminum Driveshaft. Just as strong but vastly lighter than the factory driveshaft. Plus no adapter plates or anything it's a direct bolt on, if you have a set of wrenches then you can do this yourself. The safety loop will require drilling, though. Not mandatory but just precautionary. Downside is it is 4" in diameter, I'd like to find a 3.5" one personally. Can't seem to find it, and found a company with an article claiming they make one only to find out they don't so that sucks hard. However this one is only a slight performance increase, it won't give you near as much satisfaction as the 8,8" rear or the dual exhaust. But it does transfer the power better.
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