View Poll Results: How Awesome will be car be when it receives the upgrades below?
Thine chariot will surpass all expectations
3
9.09%
I reckon it will beget much reckoning
9
27.27%
While improved, this sixer won't heat up the trail of a bone stock GT, ever.
18
54.55%
It will suck so badly you will regret it until you die a dusty fart-induced death.
3
9.09%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Hey there everybuddy!! Here is my 2010 V6 Project description
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 77
From: IL
Thanks for the advice to all who responded!
I basically understand from the advice on my mods that I should:
-Wait to lower until I buy shocks
-Possibly return or exchange gears for a better brand
-Return the Bumpsteer Kit? How does it increase tread wear if it could improve handling and allow more coasting?
-Do you think front arm relocation is necessary to maintain handling of a lowered car? It's only being lowered 1" or 1.5" with the relocated front arm and 1.5" in the back.
I will also check out the different braces offered by Steeda. They sent me a GT strut brace since it was included with the Stage 1 pack which does not offer the option to pick one or the other. Since I just shipped mine back, I'll might be able to have them keep the Steeda one and send me a better one!
I basically understand from the advice on my mods that I should:
-Wait to lower until I buy shocks
-Possibly return or exchange gears for a better brand
-Return the Bumpsteer Kit? How does it increase tread wear if it could improve handling and allow more coasting?
-Do you think front arm relocation is necessary to maintain handling of a lowered car? It's only being lowered 1" or 1.5" with the relocated front arm and 1.5" in the back.
I will also check out the different braces offered by Steeda. They sent me a GT strut brace since it was included with the Stage 1 pack which does not offer the option to pick one or the other. Since I just shipped mine back, I'll might be able to have them keep the Steeda one and send me a better one!
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 77
From: IL
That 5 link stiffener is $1,000! I'll pass.
Could there be a misconception that the bumpsteer kit is only needed on slammed cars because they are usually bouncier if new shocks are not also bought?
Could there be a misconception that the bumpsteer kit is only needed on slammed cars because they are usually bouncier if new shocks are not also bought?
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 77
From: IL
"Steeda bumpsteer kit, is highly recommended to prevent bump-steer whenever caster-camber plates are used in combination with the X2 balljoint."
Since I bought neither of the two, I think I'll return this one.
Since I bought neither of the two, I think I'll return this one.
...
4th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,112
From: San Jose, CA
Thanks for the advice to all who responded!
I basically understand from the advice on my mods that I should:
-Wait to lower until I buy shocks
Yes, the ride will be worsened by the bounciness and you won't handle better without new shocks/struts.
-Possibly return or exchange gears for a better brand
Whining gears are terrible, and they are there for life.
-Return the Bumpsteer Kit? How does it increase tread wear if it could improve handling and allow more coasting?
Changing the toe angle of the car causes significant tread wear, way more than negative camber.
-Do you think front arm relocation is necessary to maintain handling of a lowered car? It's only being lowered 1" or 1.5" with the relocated front arm and 1.5" in the back.
I don't see any real benefit to this, so no. Don't know how thick the sway bars are in the new 2010 V6's, but get thicker ones like off a GT with poly bushings will do the trick to maintain the handling.
I basically understand from the advice on my mods that I should:
-Wait to lower until I buy shocks
Yes, the ride will be worsened by the bounciness and you won't handle better without new shocks/struts.
-Possibly return or exchange gears for a better brand
Whining gears are terrible, and they are there for life.
-Return the Bumpsteer Kit? How does it increase tread wear if it could improve handling and allow more coasting?
Changing the toe angle of the car causes significant tread wear, way more than negative camber.
-Do you think front arm relocation is necessary to maintain handling of a lowered car? It's only being lowered 1" or 1.5" with the relocated front arm and 1.5" in the back.
I don't see any real benefit to this, so no. Don't know how thick the sway bars are in the new 2010 V6's, but get thicker ones like off a GT with poly bushings will do the trick to maintain the handling.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 77
From: IL
I returned/am returning:
The Motive gears. They were back-ordered anyway. I'm going to use the limited slip with the stock gears for the time being.
The front arm relocation and bumpsteer kit
This is to make it possible to buy shocks quicker. Then comes the sway bar, and getting my subs' wiring (costly) and audio installed.
Also, I had a question since I'm ignorant about trannies.. Do new gears improve cars with CAIs significantly? It seems like even if your MAF is unprogrammed it could improve your launch. They [CAIs] seem to do the job alright at higher RPMs.. but maybe throw off your shifts unless they are calibrated with a tuner, but those are so damn expensive.
The Motive gears. They were back-ordered anyway. I'm going to use the limited slip with the stock gears for the time being.
The front arm relocation and bumpsteer kit
This is to make it possible to buy shocks quicker. Then comes the sway bar, and getting my subs' wiring (costly) and audio installed.
Also, I had a question since I'm ignorant about trannies.. Do new gears improve cars with CAIs significantly? It seems like even if your MAF is unprogrammed it could improve your launch. They [CAIs] seem to do the job alright at higher RPMs.. but maybe throw off your shifts unless they are calibrated with a tuner, but those are so damn expensive.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,112
From: San Jose, CA
You are going to NEED a tuner if you get new gears. You have to re-calibrate your car.
The CAI is best with a tune, without one, the gains are minimal.
I HIGHLY recommend you do not install the T-Lok install until you get new gears (IF you are going to a higher ratio later), because you will just end up paying annother $300-500 for another gear installation.
The CAI is best with a tune, without one, the gains are minimal.
I HIGHLY recommend you do not install the T-Lok install until you get new gears (IF you are going to a higher ratio later), because you will just end up paying annother $300-500 for another gear installation.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 77
From: IL
So I'm returning the torque/frame rail box, bumpsteer, and front arm relocation kit. Next, I am installing my new air intake filter when the order finally arrives and should have it in by this weekend, and since it won't cost much, I will get the axleback bolted on too so I can enjoy the rumble. The $420-450 or so I'll have back on my Visa after return shipping out of pocket will go a long way toward getting the more costly mods put in. This includes things like the panhard bar, G-trac brace, the Stop the Hop pack, headers, etc. While I saw the estimated number of hours on the website, I don't have any idea how much to expect these things to cost me to get put in by a tech.
Strut brace: I think I can manage to put on the strut tower brace. I may upgrade it in the future, but since it was part of a pack, I don't want the hassle of trying to return it individually. Since they shipped the wrong type of brace originally, I have gotten a chance to see it, and while it didn't fit, it's a nice one that's thick all the way through and includes a plate that basically makes it reinforced double barrel.
What's most important than getting all the suspension mods in is making my car louder and breathing freely (air filter + headers + muffler) because economy and sound is more important to me right now. I will probably do the window tinting and installation of the subs and amp from my old car sometime before having the limited slip and lowering of the vehicle done, and I will probably have to wait until after the winter to buy some new gears and shocks due to financial hardships. Per the advice I received, I will wait until I have the gears and shocks to lower and get T-Loked.
Strut brace: I think I can manage to put on the strut tower brace. I may upgrade it in the future, but since it was part of a pack, I don't want the hassle of trying to return it individually. Since they shipped the wrong type of brace originally, I have gotten a chance to see it, and while it didn't fit, it's a nice one that's thick all the way through and includes a plate that basically makes it reinforced double barrel.
What's most important than getting all the suspension mods in is making my car louder and breathing freely (air filter + headers + muffler) because economy and sound is more important to me right now. I will probably do the window tinting and installation of the subs and amp from my old car sometime before having the limited slip and lowering of the vehicle done, and I will probably have to wait until after the winter to buy some new gears and shocks due to financial hardships. Per the advice I received, I will wait until I have the gears and shocks to lower and get T-Loked.
Last edited by BAMFingOh10; Jul 14, 2009 at 07:50 PM.