jpormen

My front breaks have squeeked ever sence i got my mustang and i get break dust way to easy so i thinking the breaks on it are cheap. Im going to attempt to change them my self soon. Ive never done it before, but i want to try to do it my self. Any tips or and how to's will help me. Also how do i know if my rotors are bad or not, i dont want to spend money on breaks and then ruin them if my rotors are bad. Like i said any advice will help thanks.

Also this is dumb question but what does S197 mean?

Alec

I recently replaced all my pads and rotors by myself. I replaced the pads with Hawk HPS and they don't have nearly the dust that the stock pads did. I also did the GT brake upgrade aka larger rotors in the front. You need larger caliper brackets to accommodate the larger rotors. I got the brackets and front rotors as a package from Moss Muscle. Highly recommended company. http://www.mossmuscle.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=72228
I bought the rear rotors from newtakeoff.com. Came to $60ish with shipping.

I'd replace the rotors if they have any grooves, warping, or if they aren't smooth

Install isn't that bad if you have the right tools (breaker bar, sockets, WD40 and the tool to compress the caliper pistons etc). It's a dirty job which took me a little while to complete. The hardest part was getting off the bolts since they were really on there. You also have to make sure the caliper pistons are completely compressed, which I didn't do at first and had problems. Any questions feel free to ask

My thread that somewhat documented my job (it was my first time)
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...nd-rotors.html

There's also some videos and threads to walk you through.

S197 refers to the chassis (05+)

jpormen

thanks, ive done a lil pricing on rotors and i was seeing some for 150-300 so if i need rotors it might be a lil longer wait for brakes. I actually jsut ordered some seat coversfrom moss last night

Alec

Yeah I might have considered getting slotted rotors if I did it again but I'm very satisfied with what I have now. I don't race it or anything and it's my DD so I don't need anything fancy.
Again, if you have any questions, I just did mine so I could probably help you out.

tx_zstang

Wow, rotors are that high?
I recently replaced my stock rotors and pads with larger rotors and Hawk pad, and will 'sell' you the rotors and pads for cost of shipping.

Installation is fairly easy, as mentioned. Remove the wheel (safely jack and support the car), remove the 2 caliper bolts (these are the smaller bolts, 12mm wrench I think), work the caliper off the rotor, and use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the spring. When removing the bolts, note how the rubber boots over the bolts are located and oriented, where the flat side rests against the caliper. Remove the pads from the axle, tilting and sliding them out (they are spring-loaded in place, but pull out by twisting and pulling at an angle; remember how you do this as you'll put them back the same way.) There's two pads on each wheel, one on the outside, one inside, so get both pads off.
You'll need to compress the caliper back in to make room for the new pads. Use a big c-clamp (6" or bigger works well), or loan a tool from your local auto parts store. Gently compress the caliper until it's all the way in. Hint: while doing this, loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap.

For rotor, check it for smoothness. If it has any ridges or grooves, it needs to be "turned" or replaced. You may have to remove a round star clip on one of the wheel studs to remove the rotor, and you'll have to remove the caliper bracket (2 bolts from the back, 15mm wrench I think). They'll be tight. With the bracket out of the way and the star washer off the wheel, the rotor slides off.

Reinstall in reverse. Put a little of the brake grease on metal contact points where the backs and tabs of the new pads contact metal surfaces (keep it off the rotor of course).

When putting the caliper back on, put the pads back on the wheel first, then work the caliper over the pads. Be careful aligning the rubber boots on the caliper bolts, making sure the straight-cut parts are lined up on the caliper properly.

IMPORTANT: Once wheels are back on, press the brake pedal a few times until it firms up! You generally don't have to bleed the brakes, but I like to bleed them a little as each wheel is worked on when that wheel is done.

Lastly, be careful of the brake dust. Do NOT use compressed air or blow it out or have a fan blowing on you, and do NOT breathe it in. Use of a dust mask is highly recommended.

It's not hard to replace pads and rotors.

teetertotter

Had my fronts replaced at 103,000 with ceramic and rears replaced with std pad at 80,000.
Rears with install was $!64 including tax last year and fronts $194 w tax this year. Rotors were in fine shape. Local front end shop does and then checks struts and joints as normal check no charge. Everything is still tight in the front end.

ryon

If you can, find a local garage that will let you watch them perform the operation
Even tho a simple brake pad change/rotor install seems easier, you could end up with something more
Im lucky I have a friend who owns a garage and teaches me

ODDYSEY

Keep this on topic...

And remember, if you don't have anything nice to say, keep your attitude to yourself..

Have a great day and welcome to MF jpormen

JCON

For the GT brake upgrade, where can I get the caliper bracket? The Ford service manual does not denote a difference between the V6 bracket and the GT bracket. I am certain there is one. If I already brought the rotors, where can I get the bracket from?