next non-visual mod
#11
Id only go with the 8.8 rear if you are not planning to upgrade to a GT in the near future.
Anyways, I have a seperate question;
What is the strongest and most reliable 7.5 t-lok? Im planning on throwing a zex kit on my car after i get the cai/tune and need one that can with stand the 270+ hp and tq range.
Anyways, I have a seperate question;
What is the strongest and most reliable 7.5 t-lok? Im planning on throwing a zex kit on my car after i get the cai/tune and need one that can with stand the 270+ hp and tq range.
#12
Ehh if you plan on installing any type of F/I, an 8.8 is a good idea. Some stickier tires, a decent launch and there's a good chance the 7.5 is done for. Plus for the cost of installing gears/tlok in the 7.5, you'll be in within the ballpark price of an 8.8
#14
For example
http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_gt..._trac-loc.aspx
It's stronger than the V6's 7.5 inch rear, has traction lock (aka limited slip differential) which gives power to both rear wheels rather than just 1 and you can get a steeper gear (3.55/3.73 or 4.10) that will pull harder than the factory 3.31 gear (if you're an automatic)
If that makes sense
http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_gt..._trac-loc.aspx
It's stronger than the V6's 7.5 inch rear, has traction lock (aka limited slip differential) which gives power to both rear wheels rather than just 1 and you can get a steeper gear (3.55/3.73 or 4.10) that will pull harder than the factory 3.31 gear (if you're an automatic)
If that makes sense
#15
Oh, I should of said if you are not planning on supin the car up so to say. Im planning on buying a GT in the near future that I will be modding. Im only going the simple route with my 6'er. But if you are heavily modding the V6, then by all means definetly get the 8.8. 7.5 cant really handle anything over 300 hp (so I've heard).
Last edited by FsuGoNoles63; 02-04-2011 at 01:00 PM.
#17
Oh, I should of said if you are not planning on supin the car up so to say. Im planning on buying a GT in the near future that I will be modding. Im only going the simple route with my 6'er. But if you are heavily modding the V6, then by all means definetly get the 8.8. 7.5 cant really handle anything around 300 hp (so I've heard).
See this thread, second post down. Pretty easy to bend the pinion on the 7.5
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-0l...6-mustang.html
aerbourne:
No, traction control (TCS) is the "computer" that when it senses the tires slipping/spinning, it cuts the throttle and applies the break.
Traction lock/t-lok/Limited slip diff (whatever you want to call it) gives power to both rear wheels. The V6 has a factory open differential, which only gives power to the one wheel, hence the one wheel burnouts.
Last edited by Alec; 02-04-2011 at 01:06 PM.
#19
yep.
Also, Alec you make a good point. Maybe I will look into the 8.8 when I have some money. I gotta get dual exhaust and cai/tune first. So, you think the 7.5 w/ a 75 shot of nitrous could do some damage?
Also, Alec you make a good point. Maybe I will look into the 8.8 when I have some money. I gotta get dual exhaust and cai/tune first. So, you think the 7.5 w/ a 75 shot of nitrous could do some damage?
#20
I look at it this way with the 7.5:
$180 for gears
$220 for t-lok
$400-600 for install
Right there you're already at about $800, which could get you a stronger 8.8
Also, if you are going the nitrous route, the most important thing is a good nitrous tune.
Last edited by Alec; 02-04-2011 at 04:32 PM.