supposidly, yes they can
(also) supposidly, if you unplug the batt over night it will erase everything and they wont know, but that is iffy...i only know one guy who has done it and it was not on a mustang

if you dont want to take that chance and retune your car (like me) i will reccomend to stay with a AFE intake, some type of axle-back exhaust (JBA imo sounds the best, but everybody likes their own thing) and (if it is actually functional) the MMR throttle body spacer
all those do not require any tuning, but they all will give you more power if you do get it done

by the way, if you didn't know, the tune will only void things that are related to the tune, so like if your window breaks you are still covered...but if your eingine dies you are on your own (i wouldnt expect that, all the dead engine guys are GTers who are running high psi superchargers)


if you dont want to tune it because you are concerend that your car may start having problems until later in it's life, you should probably wait for about 1k miles before assuring your car is alright (and this also gives it time to break in)




oh, and nitous is still an option for you, the 75hp shot requires no tune

 

Im not at all concered that I will have problems, I love Ford, it just seems silly to void the warranty after only 3 weeks LOL although it will definitly be a future mod! What is the relationship between RWHP and the horsepower at the crank? I have an automatic transmition and was told to expect a 15% decrease in power between the engine hp and the RWHP. What is a good rule of thumb for this?

[IMG]local://upfiles/28145/D7E24BD7A7B5436DA6F2F10997AA9F64.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/28145/4776FA3DED524ED4B70081FD5C429EF9.jpg[/IMG]

 

Adding HP is great, and addictive but the best mod I did was the gears and tlok. Here is the price break out for what I did:

-Tlok: 185-200
-Gears: 144-200
-Bearing kit: 70
-Labor: 250-300

A shop shouldn't charge you more than 325 to install these items. Make sure the shop knows ford rear ends or stangs. I would call your local mustang club and get a reference on a shop.

 

eck...my shop said 800+ for the installation of gears

 

I wouldn't worry about a tune voiding your warranty... Simply put it back to stock if you ever have to take it in for service... Most Ford techs will tell you there is no way for an average Ford dealership to tell the car has been reflashed... At most they could tell that it's been reflashed... but how could they ever prove you did it? Could have been flashed mutliple times at the factory... And how could they prove it caused the problem? Just never tell them you reflashed... LOL! Heck, I've had my car in for service with my Zex Nitrous kit installed, in plain sight and still connected to my faulty Throttle Position Sensor... The car still had my Nitrous tune loaded... Dealership never said a thing... Most dealership might not be that cool... but I honestly don't think a tune will get you in trouble...

The average stock autoatic is around 170RWHP or about a 20% loss.

 

You really got some good responses to your question!

If I had a manual tranny V6 Mustang (I really like the V6 but got a GT instead, long story) I would do the following:

*Disclaimer: These are all things I would do prior to warranty end before the SC went on.

CAI (C&L or JLT)
Tune (SCT2) (best done on dyno after all mods installed)
LT Headers (ceramic coated, smog legal)
Hi-flow cats into an X-pipe to GT takeoff or Flowmaster 40's
3:73 or 4:10 gears
Detroit Trutrack or Auburn Limited slip differential
ZEX 100 shot nitrous
Hurst short throw shifter
Eibach Proline Springs
Tokico adjustable shocks
Strut tower brace

These parts would make one super hot V6 Mustang. My emphasis after those bolt-ons would be on HANDLING. Handling is the Mustangs weakness and should be emphasized if you ever decide to Autocross or if you just like a car that has both power and cornering ability.

Good Luck!

 

Does Hurst have a short throw for the V6 yet? I've been waiting for this.