Justin, Help PLEASE! (local)
03-21-2010, 04:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 131
Justin, Help PLEASE! (local)
Hey justin, I am local in Orlando, I will be making an appointment with you next week for dyno tuning, but I wanted to give you a heads up, just to get an idea of what is going on. here is a copy and paste of my recent post of the problems I am having. Supposively, The car is running kenne bells stock tune just FYI.
I recently made a post about my vac/boost gauge not accurately reading boost. At idle, my vac used to stay steady around 18-20 mmhg, which is normal from what I understand. Over the last week, that has changed, and at idle, the vac gauge now sits at about 4-6 mmhg. It doesn't fluctuate or act erratic, but this doesn't add up. I don't "think" I have a leak but I really have no idea. The performance of the car still seems to be fine, I mean I am at 80 mph in no time in 3rd gear What kind of issues would I see if I had a leak? Also, the max boost I am seeing (according to the gauge atleast) is still 3-4 lbs of boost. I am running a kb 2.6 with a 10psi pulley.
Also, I am not sure if it is related or not, but ever since I got my car, it gives me "issues" when starting when it is warm. When the car is cold, it turns over just fine, jumps up to about 1800 rpms, and then backs down as it gets warm, just as it should. If the car is warm (as in, I just shut it down 5-20 minutes ago) it gives me a hard time turning over. It takes quite a big longer, and when the car DOES turn over, it takes a few seconds for the idle to come up to around 750 or so. It will get to about 200, sound very rough, and then kind of jump up to 750 a few seconds later. It is very noticable how much harder it is to start when warm. My fuel system has dual GT pumps, with 2 6' lines, connected to 1 10' line, with 42 lb injectors just FYI. I figured this could be a fuel related issue however I am not sure. The original owner told me the best way to start the car was to turn it to the "on" position, let the fuel pump run for a few seconds, turn it to the off position, and then start it back up. This seems to help, but hasn't cured the problem all the time. Thanks for any help guys
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I recently made a post about my vac/boost gauge not accurately reading boost. At idle, my vac used to stay steady around 18-20 mmhg, which is normal from what I understand. Over the last week, that has changed, and at idle, the vac gauge now sits at about 4-6 mmhg. It doesn't fluctuate or act erratic, but this doesn't add up. I don't "think" I have a leak but I really have no idea. The performance of the car still seems to be fine, I mean I am at 80 mph in no time in 3rd gear What kind of issues would I see if I had a leak? Also, the max boost I am seeing (according to the gauge atleast) is still 3-4 lbs of boost. I am running a kb 2.6 with a 10psi pulley.
Also, I am not sure if it is related or not, but ever since I got my car, it gives me "issues" when starting when it is warm. When the car is cold, it turns over just fine, jumps up to about 1800 rpms, and then backs down as it gets warm, just as it should. If the car is warm (as in, I just shut it down 5-20 minutes ago) it gives me a hard time turning over. It takes quite a big longer, and when the car DOES turn over, it takes a few seconds for the idle to come up to around 750 or so. It will get to about 200, sound very rough, and then kind of jump up to 750 a few seconds later. It is very noticable how much harder it is to start when warm. My fuel system has dual GT pumps, with 2 6' lines, connected to 1 10' line, with 42 lb injectors just FYI. I figured this could be a fuel related issue however I am not sure. The original owner told me the best way to start the car was to turn it to the "on" position, let the fuel pump run for a few seconds, turn it to the off position, and then start it back up. This seems to help, but hasn't cured the problem all the time. Thanks for any help guys
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