Steering Squeak
10-10-2013, 11:17 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 37
Steering Squeak
here's a video of how bad it is. i can't take it anymore it was never that loud i figured it was nothing but now its ridiculous. i took off the wheel and looked and didn't see anything noticeably wrong, i sprayed a lot of wd-40 on the tie rod, bushings, etc and it didn't stop it even temporarily. although when the car was jacked up the noise was gone from no weight, i don't know if that means anything. if anyone has had this problem could you please tell me what is it? i'm trying to avoid taking it to a shop to save some money. would've gotten it fixed months ago but i just haven't had any extra money. i'm thinking it's the tie rod boot is dried out.
Last edited by razor9546; 10-10-2013 at 11:23 AM.
10-15-2013, 07:26 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
Sounds like rubber rubbing against metal. Could be a bad ball joint, bad strut, loose strut mount. Since you can reproduce the problem in your driveway, I’d have a friend turn the wheel for you while you stick your ear in various places to try and narrow down the sound. My bet is a bad strut. Good luck...
10-15-2013, 09:23 PM
#4
Mine has the Same exact noise. It's actually the ball joint that's dry. The way I temporarily silenced it is by putting wd-40 in the ball joint by putting the straw inside though a hole on the bottom of the ball joint. THIS IS NOT A PERMANT FIX. I just did this while my Moog Ball joints come in.
10-16-2013, 10:27 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 37
Well found out what that damn noise was.
It turns out it was the tie rod end boot (or maybe it was the ball joint boot? not sure what it's called but it was the small boot right next to the rotor). i poked a hole in there and began to pack some grease in there only to find out there was a huge slice in the boot behind the rotor which was the main problem as to why the boot dried out. So i just basically poured super glue on the slice packed more grease and super glued the first hole. For now it's squeak free and it corrected my steering so much. I'll probably buy a new boot once the squeak comes back and the boot dries out but for now, redneck fixes ftw.
It turns out it was the tie rod end boot (or maybe it was the ball joint boot? not sure what it's called but it was the small boot right next to the rotor). i poked a hole in there and began to pack some grease in there only to find out there was a huge slice in the boot behind the rotor which was the main problem as to why the boot dried out. So i just basically poured super glue on the slice packed more grease and super glued the first hole. For now it's squeak free and it corrected my steering so much. I'll probably buy a new boot once the squeak comes back and the boot dries out but for now, redneck fixes ftw.
Last edited by razor9546; 10-16-2013 at 10:29 AM.
10-17-2013, 06:06 AM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
If the part your taking about is on the end of a long shaft that connects to the steering rack, and is at the 3 or 9 o’clock position on the rotor, then yes it is the (outer) tie rod. If the part your talking about is attached to the lower control arm, at the 6 o’clock position on the rotor, then its the ball joint.
Tie rods & ball joints must be sealed. Poking wholes in them is a really really bad idea. Super-glue will not hold. Even a little bit of dirt or water in there and the joint is hosed. If the tie rod/ball joint was dry, even for a moment, it needs to be replaced. Packing it full of grease is a temporary fix, but the part needs to be replaced. Its not just a noise issue. Its a safety issue. Worn out tie rods and ball joints have been known to separate which can cause a loss in control of the vehicle. They are inexpensive parts and easy to install. Just replace it.
Tie rods & ball joints must be sealed. Poking wholes in them is a really really bad idea. Super-glue will not hold. Even a little bit of dirt or water in there and the joint is hosed. If the tie rod/ball joint was dry, even for a moment, it needs to be replaced. Packing it full of grease is a temporary fix, but the part needs to be replaced. Its not just a noise issue. Its a safety issue. Worn out tie rods and ball joints have been known to separate which can cause a loss in control of the vehicle. They are inexpensive parts and easy to install. Just replace it.
10-17-2013, 08:00 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 37
If the part your taking about is on the end of a long shaft that connects to the steering rack, and is at the 3 or 9 o’clock position on the rotor, then yes it is the (outer) tie rod. If the part your talking about is attached to the lower control arm, at the 6 o’clock position on the rotor, then its the ball joint.
Tie rods & ball joints must be sealed. Poking wholes in them is a really really bad idea. Super-glue will not hold. Even a little bit of dirt or water in there and the joint is hosed. If the tie rod/ball joint was dry, even for a moment, it needs to be replaced. Packing it full of grease is a temporary fix, but the part needs to be replaced. Its not just a noise issue. Its a safety issue. Worn out tie rods and ball joints have been known to separate which can cause a loss in control of the vehicle. They are inexpensive parts and easy to install. Just replace it.
Tie rods & ball joints must be sealed. Poking wholes in them is a really really bad idea. Super-glue will not hold. Even a little bit of dirt or water in there and the joint is hosed. If the tie rod/ball joint was dry, even for a moment, it needs to be replaced. Packing it full of grease is a temporary fix, but the part needs to be replaced. Its not just a noise issue. Its a safety issue. Worn out tie rods and ball joints have been known to separate which can cause a loss in control of the vehicle. They are inexpensive parts and easy to install. Just replace it.
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