nmerrill

Hey Guys, the other day i was out on a boat call, and i left my windows down. My GF rolled up my windows, but she left my keys in the on position. When i got back my bat. was dead. I jumped it, and let it charge for a sec, and then drove home(like 2 miles). ABout half way there teh car started bucking, and if i gave it any gas it would cut out. So i limped home, and when i looked underneath the single wire that bolts the alternator was broke. It looked like it popped off, not tore, or slid out of the connector. I had the alt. tested and it came out good, so i put a new connector on, and still there is no charge, i let my battery totally recharge, and it just went dead if i would drive it. I checked all my battery connections, and alt connections, they are all good. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry about the long post, just trying to be descriptive. BTW, its a 3g alt.

mattdel

when i did my 3g there was 3 wires going to that post, plus a 2gauge to the battery. so 4 total.

PRO50SC

First things first, do you have power to all the places that feed the alt you should? The power feed wire you spoke of, that is supplied power thru fusable links from the starter solenoid. make sure the links are good and that wire is "hot"

nmerrill

There is multiple wires, but i meant all were going to one place, sorry..... I just didnt mean like a plug. And pro, so you have any ideas where the fuses are inline? I thought that same thing, but i cannot find any fuses

PRO50SC

They are not fuses per say, they are fusable link wire that come off the starter solenoid. Is there power to the wire on the back of the alt. If so, the fusable links are ok.

When you did the 3g, did you run a new power wire to the alt or are you still using the factory wiring?

nmerrill

The 3g was done when i got the car, but it looks like factory wiring. Should i rewire it totally?

PRO50SC

Dude please answer all my questions so i don't have to keep asking!!

nmerrill

Yes there is

PRO50SC

Then you most likely have an issue in the field circuit between the alt and the gauge. Provided the test was done correctly on the alt and all other obvious things have been checked

I had a customers stang a couple years ago that had a no charge issue. It ended up being the feed going to the back of the circuit board on the back of the i/p. You will need a wiring diagram and an ohm meter to be able to verify that wire is good.

nmerrill

ok, thanks. Ill check that out tomorrow when it stops raining