unable to keep cooling temp down
09-18-2012, 01:00 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TX
Posts: 189
Waste of time. These cars should always have a puller fan.
What's wrong with running at normal operating temp? If you are too cold your computer will keep the car computer in open loop.
30 over bore will not make your engine that much hotter. How much have you milled e7 heads? The more you mill heads/block the higher compression will be. Higher compression = higher temperatures.
What's wrong with running at normal operating temp? If you are too cold your computer will keep the car computer in open loop.
30 over bore will not make your engine that much hotter. How much have you milled e7 heads? The more you mill heads/block the higher compression will be. Higher compression = higher temperatures.
09-18-2012, 01:02 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TX
Posts: 189
what do you have your timing set at. Also you went to a carb so you need to be sure you have the mixture screws set correctly. If you took the carb out of the box and bolted it on chances are your running lean. A lean mix will cause a higher temp.
If you dont like running at 210 get a 180 stat and a 2 core radiator.
Honestly though the stock gauge is crap and highly unreliable for acurate temp readings get a set of after market they are far more acurate.
also you dont need the fan to run all the time they make a kit that you can adjust the temp the fan comes on at.
If you dont like running at 210 get a 180 stat and a 2 core radiator.
Honestly though the stock gauge is crap and highly unreliable for acurate temp readings get a set of after market they are far more acurate.
also you dont need the fan to run all the time they make a kit that you can adjust the temp the fan comes on at.
@ mattdel, hoses do seem to be a bit flemsy (hope i spelled that right).
I do notice this: if i start the car and let it idle without driving it or putting it underload it will keep temp low but once i drive around the block or put it underload, the temp will rise and will not fall once left idling.
Last edited by javila2468; 09-18-2012 at 01:11 PM.
09-18-2012, 01:17 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Spfld, MA
Posts: 9,240
Sounds like radiator to me. A crude way to check would be to take your lower hose off and stick a garden hose in the cap. It should come out the bottom 100% as fast as it's going in.
Given your statement that the radiator is newer, I can't say for certain, though. If it is indeed already plugged, chances are good you need a good hard flush via flushing equipment for the rest of the system.
Given your statement that the radiator is newer, I can't say for certain, though. If it is indeed already plugged, chances are good you need a good hard flush via flushing equipment for the rest of the system.
09-20-2012, 07:10 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: va
Posts: 135
if it has no stat there is some of the problem
If you're running no thermostat, an aluminum radiator, and a full-time electric fan, and the engine is still at 210, something is wrong in the cooling system. These engines have a hard time reaching 180 without a thermostat.
Plugged radiator, bad water pump, collapsing hoses... something is wrong.
Plugged radiator, bad water pump, collapsing hoses... something is wrong.
09-21-2012, 08:25 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TX
Posts: 189
cooling issue fixed. i had previously removed the aluminum water resevoir it had attached to the radiator but now that i put it back the heating issue went away. i had noticed the radiator would build up too much pressure without it.
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