bondo help
12-26-2006, 06:26 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 88
bondo help
hey guys i have a few dents on the left and right quarter panels and on the roof. i wanted to know what is the best way to have it corrected. should i bondo it or should i get it replaced?
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[IMG]local://upfiles/25966/CB7D2C630E8A41BEB2D7122F4136E638.jpg[/IMG]
12-26-2006, 06:39 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,707
RE: bondo help
thats not really minor...at least not to me....you definitley would have to either somehow pop that out and sorta smooth it best you can then bondo it....or if your going to replace the whole quarter...well thats another thing..........
bondo is supposed to be like a skim coating....not to fill canyons of dented metal.
bondo is supposed to be like a skim coating....not to fill canyons of dented metal.
12-26-2006, 11:16 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Gardena, California
Posts: 339
RE: bondo help
You need to bang those dents out a little better. If you are considering replacing the parts yourself you must have the skills to fix a dent. Unless you are going to farm it out. If that's the case just have the bodywork done.
12-27-2006, 03:46 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 329
RE: bondo help
Well IMO they are very fixable....
the rear frnder can be popped out and fixed with a small amount of bondo.
the second dent can be fixed... a little harder. But do-able.
Things that i would use.
Stud Welder.....
this tool is used after you sand down the area to the metal....you place a stud in the gun....pull the trigger for 1 sec if that....then use the stud puller to pull the studs out....depend on how long you pull the trigger will depend on how easy it will be to get the stud off. there is a sweet spot that you can try to find and the stud will pop off using plyers and no grinding the little tip off.
you can use alot of the little studs to get it perfect.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1676
then you can use a dolly and a hammer to get some of the other smaller dents out
then using small amounts of bondo over the area. then use a hand plam sander to sand down the bondo....
like this one
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1712
now i would then use black spray paint and just spary lightly on the bondo....
By doing this you can then sand on top of it to see where your low spots are or high spots. Just keep sanding and dont worry about adding more bondo.....you should only put THIN amounts of bondo. And not too much hardner.
then use a glaze coat on top of the bondo when it is smooth.
then sand that down....bondo should only be applied to the substrate ( bare metal ) then the glaze coat can be applied over paint if nessecary.
then once that is smooth primer can be applied.
now here is an atricle that i found online.....or you can read below
http://www.brooks.af.mil/afioh/Healt...d_autobody.htm
2.1.1 Process Description - General Dent Repair
The time involved with vehicle dent repair is dependent on the extent of damage to the vehicle. During a general dent repair a slide hammer is used to pull out dents. To use the slide hammer, a small hole is cut into the repair area, the hammer is inserted and the worker holds the sliding grip and pulls back forcefully (Figure 1). Once the dent is pulled out, a grinder is used to smooth the area. A worker will experience vibration effects from the grinder and may be in an awkward position to use the grinder.
Once the rough areas are smooth, bondo is applied with a spatula. The bondo is allowed to dry and the area is then sanded with a DA sander and/or by hand. The bondo and sanding tasks are repeated until the repair area is built up and smooth. The main risks during these tasks are from vibration and forceful hand exertions.
The final step of general dent repair is to water sand and prime the area for painting. The amount of time spent performing all of these tasks varies according to the size and location of the dent. A repair of a 30 x 9 inch dent near a truck bumper lasted 70 minutes.
2.1.2 Process Description - Panel Replacement
In some cases it is more cost efficient and time efficient to replace an entire vehicle panel rather than to repair the damage. When a panel is removed and a new panel is attached the ergonomic risk varies with the location of the repair. For example, if a door is damaged, the entire door will be detached from hinges and replaced with a new door. This process does not take very long and only involves risks from manual material handling. However, if a side panel is damaged it must be ground and chiseled off of the vehicle and a new panel is welded in place. This process can take two days to accomplish and involves risk factors of vibration, awkward postures, and hand exertions.
When a side panel of a truck is replaced the first step of removal is to pull or pound out the dented area of the panel (Figure 2). A hammer and/or slide hammer is used to accomplish this. Some repetitive, forceful hand exertions are required for this task.
After the dent is pulled out the panel is removed. To remove the panel the worker grinds along the seams of the panel (Figure 3). When the grinder cuts through the panel a chisel is used with a hammer to begin tearing back the panel (Figures 4-6). These tasks, grinding and chiseling, alternate until all of the seams of the panel have been detached. Workers experience forceful hand exertions and vibration effects from the tools used for these tasks. In addition, the worker typically is standing with a bent neck while working along the top edges of the truck, and is kneeling, squatting, or sitting on a rolling stool (Figure 7) for the lower areas of the truck, such as the wheel well.
Once the panel is removed a new panel is welded in place. Bondo and sanding is accomplished to produce a finished surface ready for painting. Components of the truck that have been removed, such as the bumper or tail gate, are re-attached to the vehicle.
the rear frnder can be popped out and fixed with a small amount of bondo.
the second dent can be fixed... a little harder. But do-able.
Things that i would use.
Stud Welder.....
this tool is used after you sand down the area to the metal....you place a stud in the gun....pull the trigger for 1 sec if that....then use the stud puller to pull the studs out....depend on how long you pull the trigger will depend on how easy it will be to get the stud off. there is a sweet spot that you can try to find and the stud will pop off using plyers and no grinding the little tip off.
you can use alot of the little studs to get it perfect.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1676
then you can use a dolly and a hammer to get some of the other smaller dents out
then using small amounts of bondo over the area. then use a hand plam sander to sand down the bondo....
like this one
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1712
now i would then use black spray paint and just spary lightly on the bondo....
By doing this you can then sand on top of it to see where your low spots are or high spots. Just keep sanding and dont worry about adding more bondo.....you should only put THIN amounts of bondo. And not too much hardner.
then use a glaze coat on top of the bondo when it is smooth.
then sand that down....bondo should only be applied to the substrate ( bare metal ) then the glaze coat can be applied over paint if nessecary.
then once that is smooth primer can be applied.
now here is an atricle that i found online.....or you can read below
http://www.brooks.af.mil/afioh/Healt...d_autobody.htm
2.1.1 Process Description - General Dent Repair
The time involved with vehicle dent repair is dependent on the extent of damage to the vehicle. During a general dent repair a slide hammer is used to pull out dents. To use the slide hammer, a small hole is cut into the repair area, the hammer is inserted and the worker holds the sliding grip and pulls back forcefully (Figure 1). Once the dent is pulled out, a grinder is used to smooth the area. A worker will experience vibration effects from the grinder and may be in an awkward position to use the grinder.
Once the rough areas are smooth, bondo is applied with a spatula. The bondo is allowed to dry and the area is then sanded with a DA sander and/or by hand. The bondo and sanding tasks are repeated until the repair area is built up and smooth. The main risks during these tasks are from vibration and forceful hand exertions.
The final step of general dent repair is to water sand and prime the area for painting. The amount of time spent performing all of these tasks varies according to the size and location of the dent. A repair of a 30 x 9 inch dent near a truck bumper lasted 70 minutes.
2.1.2 Process Description - Panel Replacement
In some cases it is more cost efficient and time efficient to replace an entire vehicle panel rather than to repair the damage. When a panel is removed and a new panel is attached the ergonomic risk varies with the location of the repair. For example, if a door is damaged, the entire door will be detached from hinges and replaced with a new door. This process does not take very long and only involves risks from manual material handling. However, if a side panel is damaged it must be ground and chiseled off of the vehicle and a new panel is welded in place. This process can take two days to accomplish and involves risk factors of vibration, awkward postures, and hand exertions.
When a side panel of a truck is replaced the first step of removal is to pull or pound out the dented area of the panel (Figure 2). A hammer and/or slide hammer is used to accomplish this. Some repetitive, forceful hand exertions are required for this task.
After the dent is pulled out the panel is removed. To remove the panel the worker grinds along the seams of the panel (Figure 3). When the grinder cuts through the panel a chisel is used with a hammer to begin tearing back the panel (Figures 4-6). These tasks, grinding and chiseling, alternate until all of the seams of the panel have been detached. Workers experience forceful hand exertions and vibration effects from the tools used for these tasks. In addition, the worker typically is standing with a bent neck while working along the top edges of the truck, and is kneeling, squatting, or sitting on a rolling stool (Figure 7) for the lower areas of the truck, such as the wheel well.
Once the panel is removed a new panel is welded in place. Bondo and sanding is accomplished to produce a finished surface ready for painting. Components of the truck that have been removed, such as the bumper or tail gate, are re-attached to the vehicle.
12-27-2006, 04:30 AM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 2,505
RE: bondo help
The dents in the trunk area will be easy to fix. You may be able to push them out by hand. If they won't push out, invest in a body hammer and a few different dollies. Do not start pounding on body panels without a dollie on the other side unless you know what you are doing. Get an old body panel at the junk yard or off an abandoned car. Put a similar dent in that panel and practice. Don't pound, tap. I would start on the borders of the dent and work my way to the inside.
The dent just behind the door will take a little more effort. Take your back seat out. Then take the panel out that covers that area. You may have to take the window, regulator, and the plate that the tracks are attached to. It is easy, just time consuming. Hey, this is what it's all about. Anyway, this may take two people. One person with the dollie and the other with the hammer. It is more difficult with two people because you have to syncranize the dollie/hammer placement. Little taps. After a while the two of you will have a system and it should work out ok. It just takes practice.
I found that the bondo with fiberglass particles work great. It is dark grey in color, not pink. Everybody says use no more than 1/8", if your using more you are making your car a bondo bucket. HOGWASH! There are just some of those times where you have to use more. Dents that are hard to get at like the one behind your door may require more bondo. Sure, some of us don't want to admit it, but I've used 1/4" applications on my stang[8D]
GOOD LUCK and post pics.
[align=left] [/align]
The dent just behind the door will take a little more effort. Take your back seat out. Then take the panel out that covers that area. You may have to take the window, regulator, and the plate that the tracks are attached to. It is easy, just time consuming. Hey, this is what it's all about. Anyway, this may take two people. One person with the dollie and the other with the hammer. It is more difficult with two people because you have to syncranize the dollie/hammer placement. Little taps. After a while the two of you will have a system and it should work out ok. It just takes practice.
I found that the bondo with fiberglass particles work great. It is dark grey in color, not pink. Everybody says use no more than 1/8", if your using more you are making your car a bondo bucket. HOGWASH! There are just some of those times where you have to use more. Dents that are hard to get at like the one behind your door may require more bondo. Sure, some of us don't want to admit it, but I've used 1/4" applications on my stang[8D]
GOOD LUCK and post pics.
[align=left] [/align]
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